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Oil pump installation!


78 280zcar

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heres the trick. get a friend to watch.

tape a piece of string across both the bolt holes on the dizzy mount.

slide the shaft unit into the oil pump. MAKE SURE TO LINE UP THE DOTS!!!! there are two small dots, one on the shaft, one on the pump. line them up.

slide the damn thing in. when friend says that the shaft line is equal to the string, you are done!

its really not that hard. make sure everything is at TDC, and that IS the correct way to do it. theres no other way.

there are two pics above that are ONLY correct. the ones with the word :shaft tang and the picture right next to it on the right. those are the ONLY TWO CORRECT WAYS

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well, thats all fine and dandy to SAY, but it didn't work for me. My car would not start with things lined up that way. (have you read the previous posts?) Some may say the way I set mine is wrong, but if that's the only way IT WORKED for my car, then it's right for my car, and if it's right for my car, it's probably right for some others.

One thing no one seems to be mentioning is that there is an adjustment bolt between the distributor, and the distributor base that will limit total timing adjustment depending on its position.

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Thats what I was going to do tomorrow. I didnt have enough time to do it today. That was the only way it worked right was the FSM way, lined up with the bolt holes. There was just one thing I forgot to mention is that when it was running crapy and I had it lined up like the FSM, I forgot to adjust the #8 and #9 valves :paranoid:, oops. So now I will have it running by tomorrow.

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Nope, couldn't be that in my case. New Chain, Tensioner, Guides, etc. Besides chain doesn't come into play with this at all.

Think about it, oil pump shaft connects to the crankshaft/oil pump drive gear only, dist connects to the oil pump shaft only. Chain has nothing to do with it. wires set correctly as well according to pic. I found all the pics I posted in a members gallery. he doesn't reply to my PMs, so thats all I know, except that his pics show what worked for me.

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Wires set following this:

791Distributor_Cap_Cyl_Numbers.JPG

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This is basically what my engine looked like but I have points in my dist.

Set the way the manual says, rotor was in the wrong place, and couldn't be adjusted far enough to get where it needed to be. I set shaft to 11:29 and I had good adjustment to either side of TDC.

7911_TDC_Distributor_Referance_Picture_Comparo.JPG

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I'm not saying this works for everyone, but this was the only way it worked for me. I tried one tooth in either direction and could not get the engine to run worth a darn. even when I maxxed the adjustment that I mentioned between dist and dist base to no avail. Somewhere here I saw a thread that talked about this (can't find it now) and some other people said they had the same situation at sometime or other.

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http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/

it may be worth your time to just double and triple check. set engine at TDC according to pulley and indicator. take valve cover off and check cam sprocket marks. then check shaft. line shaft up correct way, EVEN IF IT DOESNT WORK FOR YOU

mount dizzy and start engine. rotate dizzy till engine actually works. if it rotates a lot, try flipping the plate on the bottom.

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If you're talking about the pic at the bottom of my post #19, THAT is where the rotor was with the dist/oil pump shaft set like the manual (and you) described. definitely one tooth off even though shaft matched pic in the manuals 11:25

Valves had NOTHING to do with it. It was distributor timing issue ONLY!!!!! Engine runs like a freakin freight train set the way I described (11:29). Didn't need to touch the valve timing at all (it was/is set correct from the beginning)

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