Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Oil pump installation!


78 280zcar

Recommended Posts

heres the trick. get a friend to watch.

tape a piece of string across both the bolt holes on the dizzy mount.

slide the shaft unit into the oil pump. MAKE SURE TO LINE UP THE DOTS!!!! there are two small dots, one on the shaft, one on the pump. line them up.

slide the damn thing in. when friend says that the shaft line is equal to the string, you are done!

its really not that hard. make sure everything is at TDC, and that IS the correct way to do it. theres no other way.

there are two pics above that are ONLY correct. the ones with the word :shaft tang and the picture right next to it on the right. those are the ONLY TWO CORRECT WAYS

Link to comment
Share on other sites


well, thats all fine and dandy to SAY, but it didn't work for me. My car would not start with things lined up that way. (have you read the previous posts?) Some may say the way I set mine is wrong, but if that's the only way IT WORKED for my car, then it's right for my car, and if it's right for my car, it's probably right for some others.

One thing no one seems to be mentioning is that there is an adjustment bolt between the distributor, and the distributor base that will limit total timing adjustment depending on its position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats what I was going to do tomorrow. I didnt have enough time to do it today. That was the only way it worked right was the FSM way, lined up with the bolt holes. There was just one thing I forgot to mention is that when it was running crapy and I had it lined up like the FSM, I forgot to adjust the #8 and #9 valves :paranoid:, oops. So now I will have it running by tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope, couldn't be that in my case. New Chain, Tensioner, Guides, etc. Besides chain doesn't come into play with this at all.

Think about it, oil pump shaft connects to the crankshaft/oil pump drive gear only, dist connects to the oil pump shaft only. Chain has nothing to do with it. wires set correctly as well according to pic. I found all the pics I posted in a members gallery. he doesn't reply to my PMs, so thats all I know, except that his pics show what worked for me.

_____________________________________________________________

Wires set following this:

791Distributor_Cap_Cyl_Numbers.JPG

_________________________________________________________________

This is basically what my engine looked like but I have points in my dist.

Set the way the manual says, rotor was in the wrong place, and couldn't be adjusted far enough to get where it needed to be. I set shaft to 11:29 and I had good adjustment to either side of TDC.

7911_TDC_Distributor_Referance_Picture_Comparo.JPG

____________________________________________________________

I'm not saying this works for everyone, but this was the only way it worked for me. I tried one tooth in either direction and could not get the engine to run worth a darn. even when I maxxed the adjustment that I mentioned between dist and dist base to no avail. Somewhere here I saw a thread that talked about this (can't find it now) and some other people said they had the same situation at sometime or other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/

it may be worth your time to just double and triple check. set engine at TDC according to pulley and indicator. take valve cover off and check cam sprocket marks. then check shaft. line shaft up correct way, EVEN IF IT DOESNT WORK FOR YOU

mount dizzy and start engine. rotate dizzy till engine actually works. if it rotates a lot, try flipping the plate on the bottom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're talking about the pic at the bottom of my post #19, THAT is where the rotor was with the dist/oil pump shaft set like the manual (and you) described. definitely one tooth off even though shaft matched pic in the manuals 11:25

Valves had NOTHING to do with it. It was distributor timing issue ONLY!!!!! Engine runs like a freakin freight train set the way I described (11:29). Didn't need to touch the valve timing at all (it was/is set correct from the beginning)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.