71' 240Z rotor is stuck on hub assy.

[dogma420]

pack grease check for wear--now is the time to replace if they need to be....

[MarkDixon]

pack grease check for wear--now is the time to replace if they need to be....

How do I know if they need to be???

[LanceM]

Clean the bearings in a solvent and wipe dry, get all of the old grease out of them. Clean the inner hub of old grease in the race area (the part the bearing seats against). Look for excessive play in the rollers in the cage, any blueing caused by heat, pitting, rust, if it isn't shiny almost chrome looking replace them. Look at the race it should look pretty much like a mirror, very smooth and shiny. If anything dosen't look right replace with new, bearings/races come as a set, replace both when you replace one. Might as well get new seals for the rear of the hub now too, they are only a couple of bucks each.

To pack a bearing place a gob of grease on the heal of your left hand, holding the bearing with the small end up in your right cut into the grease and push the base of the bearing against your hand forcing the grease into the bearing, when it is coming out of the top that section is "packed" and you can rotate the bearing and continue until the whole bearing is packed (just to make it clear you want the grease packing in and around the rollers not coming up the big hole in the center ). You'll know you are doing it right if the heal of your hand starts getting sore about the end of the second bearing Needless to say now your hands and the bearing are covered with grease, don't drop it or you will find out how dirty the floor is and will get to start over!!!

If you have to replace a race, use a long punch and a hammer and drive them out. To install the new ones the best tool is a race punch, but since we never have what we need I have had good sucess using a clean old bearing and a block of wood to drive them in till seated.

Hope this helps.

[mlc240z]

glad it worked!!

i use the old race on top of the new race. place the new into position and the old inverted (thin edge against thin edge) at first to start. once you get the new below the face of the hub, pull off old and place in same direction as new. tap on top of the old race to seat.

by inverting you don't damage the new race's bearing surface. by placing in same direction, when you finally get the new seated you now have the bottom of the old jutting out so you have a surface to pop the old out with a punch. it's difficult to explain well, but you'll see why placing in the same direction is necessary when you go to extract the old.

[beandip]

Great advise , Lance . One thing be sure to use grease that is ment for disc brakes. It can handel more heat. Gary

[Arne]

In my mind, front wheel bearings are so cheap, I see no reason not to replace them if there is any question about their condition, or if you think that they are not fairly recent. I will replace mine the first time I have the hubs off for any reason - just because.

[MarkDixon]

Arne, I came to the same conclusion. I thought what does it matter if they are good or bad. I don't want to have to take the wheel assy. back off in a week to replace bearings I should have replaced today.

So with that said, I believe I used a simmilar method that Bart and Lance were explaining. The packing of the grease was the easy and fun part as I don't mind getting dirty. Plus when my wife comes out into the garage it really looks like I'm getting things done when I have grease all over me.

Getting the "race" off was a bit of a job. And if that wasn't enough trying to get the new ones on was even harder.

I eventually preveiled.

Took her for a test spin with my new bearings, pads, and rotors. For the first time since I've had her the steering wheel doesn't shake out of my hands when I put on the brakes.

By the way, I have finally trained my wife how to pump the brakes so I can actually get all air out of the lines.

Job done...

Thanks for all of your help.

Now I believe all I have left are cosmetic things.

Such as both rockers, both rear wheel arches, a driver side fender and of course the rusted out rear hatch panel.

I have purchased all the replacement panels so all I need to do now is save my money to get them welded in.

Then of course another year or so of saving for the paint job.

You guys have a wonderful weekend.

Mark

[LanceM]

Though I can see your point of replacing them, wheel bearings if properly cared for can last hundreds of thousands of miles. Replacing them does eliminate the question of whether or not they are still good, but it is sort of like throwing the baby out with the bath water if they are still good and serviceable, considering that you will have them out again in 20-30K miles if you plan on a regular service schedule of repacking them, or the next time you do brakes which will probably be in 50K or so replacing them everytime will get expensive.

[Arne]

No, I don't replace them every time I have them out, only the first time I service them on a new-to-me car where I have no clue to their history. Once replaced that first time, I just service them regularly from there on out.

[MarkDixon]

I'm right there with you guys.

I bought the car about 2 years ago. I towed it to my house, finally got it to run, but the frame rail was so rusted it wasn't safe to drive.

I have done quite a few things to restore it mechanically, but have not driven it much at all.

I just got it back from my mechanic who has had it for 6 months.

He replaced the frame rail. Woohoo!!! I can drive it now.

Unfortunatly the rotors were so warped when I applied the brakes the steering wheel felt like it was going to fall off.

I had the rotors turned before I took it to my mechanic so I knew they were shot.

Anyway,

It is running like a champ now.

I'm sure the bearings were good, but you know how it is restoring something this old.

once you remove one thing, you find 10 more under it that needs attention.