Diff mount & Slave cyl. swap?

[240zwinter]

Hello I have a early 71 and a shop had put a 5 speed from a 280z in it many years ago. It seems that they did not replace the slave cylinder at the time and the rod is too short and caused the piston to move almost out of the cylinder to actuate the clutch.

Does anyone know if there is a small bore slave cylinder and a large bore clutch master cylinder combo from a 240/260/280/zx ? that has a long and hopefully adjustable rod? I want a larger and smaller bore combo than stock if possible to reduce the clutch pedal movement.

I also need to replace the Diff. mount bushing does anyone know a good year from another car that will fit? Maybe one that is of a longer lasting or stiffer design ?

Going back to the junk yards : )

Thanks.

[jmortensen]

There is an adjustable rod and a non adjustable rod. They need to be used with the correct shift fork. If you don't have the fork with the hole in the end, then you need to use the non adjustable rod. If you get a new slave it will probably come with the non adjustable rod. Just pull it out and put your adjustable rod in, everything else will function just fine that way. I don't believe that there are different size slave cylinders BTW.

Do a search on "diff mount". The stock design SUCKS and there are a couple of really easy alternatives that are much stronger and don't rely on the craptastic factory strap setup.

[240zwinter]

I went to the junk yard and found a 11/16" slave cylinder from a 87 200sx that bolts on. The stock one that I found on most Z's is a 3/4". The bore length is the same but the 200sx comes with a longer non adjustable rod.

I think when the shop did the tranny swap they mis-matched the clutch arm some how : (

Picked up another E12-80 mod for $7.00 : )

I went under the car and tried moving the dif with a jack from the front/nose and the back at the mustach bar and it DONT move at all? I could have sworn that clunking sound was it but does not seem to be? I even jacked on the tranny mount and it is solid as well?

I put it in gear and jacked one side of the rear end up so one tire was off the ground and the other was on the ground to see if I could find some play in the U-Joints. I did not see any slop or feel any play so I am at a loss to what thye hell that clunk is?

Any idea's on what would make a clunk in the rear when torque is applied by accelerating or shifting hard. It does it only when going forward.

[240zwinter]

Installed new U-Joints in the drive shaft and the clunk is gone : )

[zman525]

i am using the MC and slave cylinder off my 240 for my 280 which has a 5 spd in it (its a 1976 5 spd is an upgrade just dont know from what). Anyways the pedal height is totally thrown off and is about an inch above my brake pedal height. Is the M/C different or is the slave cylinder different? i figured just the M/C cuz i used the non adjustable rod original from the 280. Anyways i figured id post this here instead of starting a new thread. Can i still buy new clutch M/C's for a 76 280z or would i have to find out what tranny it is and match it to that?