We cannot seem to get the pivot bolt out of the transverse link. Can anyone offer some advice?

You are probably referring to the spindle pin I think. Search spindle pin here and atlanticz.com . Also search spindle pin tool .I'm in the process of doing mine now.

I found the post that tells me the pins are seized in there pretty good. I will keep soaking for now.

I am thinking the same thing , I cant remember a bolt like this on a transverslink. It must be the lock bolt on the spindle pin. Soak it with Kroil or P B Blaster well and let it soak over night if you can , soak it again and loosen the nut a couple of turns and tap the nut with a soft hammer and see if you can dislodge it. This is a tapered pin with a flat side that is there to keep the spindle pin from turnig. Try again after a hour or so that it has been soaking with Kroil . WD-40 is a poor subsitute but it's better than nothing. Gary

With as many problems with the spindle pins as there are, has anybody looked into the web site that has a solid pin in it?? http://www.modern-motorsports.com

I will be doing my suspension soon and wonder if anyone has seen or used this rear adjustable control arm?

I still have the puller to loan to members and also the plans and parts list on a pdf file if you wish to build your own. there is a member of this club that has them for sale . this puller makes the job easy and a couple of hour job at most . Plus it saves the old pin for reuse . Gary :rambo:

Inserted from another post....

Post #1. Made my spindle pin removal tool and got to work today. Things are nice and clean under my Z...no rust or corrosion. I decided to drop both sides complete. Pulling the driveshafts took less than 30 minutes. Every bolt came out without a hitch. In 20 minutes I had both strut/control arms assemblies on the ground. I quickly ground out the flats on the stub axles and spun the nuts off. A few mild hammer blows with a bar of aluminum and the stub axles were out (swapping for the 280Z stub axles). One spindle pin came right out with no fuss. Damn, things were really looking good. The other spindle pin was completely frozen in place. I sheared the threaded end off in my tool...double damn! I used a cutoff wheel to sever the pin on either side of the stub axle housing. Clamped in a vice, I put serious heat using an acetylene/oxygen torch on the housing. No matter how I pounded the pin remnant it will not come out.

Post #2. First of all, I sheared the threaded portion off in my pin puller. It can be repaired and will remove all but the most stubborn pins. Now the good news, the pin is OUT!!! I brought the assembly into work and went to see my good friend in the machine shop. The housing was sprayed with Aero Kroil. This stuff is amazing. I've used every nut buster out there and this stuff outshines them all! We turned down several grade 8 9/16" bolts in various lengths without the threads. I drilled a 11/16" hole through a 1/2" plate to support the housing 360 degrees. We used a 15 ton press and used a 1/2" long bolt to start. This minimized the risk of it being shot out under tremendous load (Warning: this operation can easily maim or kill you...Safety First!). at 3,000 PSI the pin started to move. It became progressively easier and finally dropped out. There was no rust, in this case, to sieze the pin. What had happened was an overzealous PO or tech had driven the lock pin in so tightly that it distorted the spindle pin and caused the ensuing mayhem. The pin was actually deformed on top from hammer blows! Apparently, they didn't understand the purpose of that lock pin. It is ONLY there to stop the pin from rotating when installing/removing the nuts. Only enough force is required to snug up the lock washer against the housing and NO MORE! I plan on using a Nylock for that purpose on reinstallation.

The pin puller is a GREAT tool and will save a lot of grief for all but the most stubborn pins. Get hold of one and give it a try first.

Update, I purchased an Omega 25 ton press for the garage. I've already pushed the bushings out fo the control arms and blasted these for powder coating. The press is an invaluable but expensive tool. I paid $556 out the door for mine. After looking at the options at harbor freight, northern tool, etc. I settled on the Omega because it was well built despite being crafted overseas.

I still have the puller to loan to members and also the plans and parts list on a pdf file if you wish to build your own. there is a member of this club that has them for sale . this puller makes the job easy and a couple of hour job at most . Plus it saves the old pin for reuse . Gary :rambo:

Hi beandip, do you still have the .pdf file. If so any chance you can email it to me.

Cheers

George

Once you see the design, it is amazing how simply, yet beautifully, it works. I borrowed the one from Gary and it took me all of 10 minutes to pull both pins.

Any chance you can PM the .pdf file

I can't seem to find it, however, here is a link to a current ebay auction for one. It shows what the puller looks like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120078955935&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RCRX_RCRX_Pr2_PcY_BIN_IT&refitem=120071161881&itemcount=2&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

It's basically a piece of hardened all-thread with a nut up top that rests on a bearing. The bearing sits atop the housing through which the all-thread passes. At the end of the all thread, which resides in the housing, is a boss that is threaded with the spindle pin pitch and diameter.

Hopefully Gary is able to get something to you.

I sent you a PM I just need your email address. gazza