240z # 2

[ddezso]

Hey everyone - I am super stoked to be here.

About 3 weeks ago I got a 1970 240Z after 17 years without a Z.

See . . . my first car ever was a 1972 240Z. I got it when I was 16, drove it for 3 months, and totalled it. I was in the hospital for a week and had my spleen removed - nearly died. God what a crappy driver I was (and 3 beers at 16 didn't help)........

I've always wanted another one. After my recovery I had a chance to buy a perfect orange 1972 240Z with something like 60,000 original miles for real cheap and passed on it. I have dreamed of getting one all this time. I even have the original shift knob from the Z I crashed waiting to find a new home for it.

Well - after bidding on countless cars on EBay and losing at the last minute to crazy bidders, I found a 1970 in Chicago online. It's VIN is HLS3003137. Although I hada 1972 I understand the 1970 is the most collectible year. It has ZERO rust and is totally straight. I now have it here in Arizona where it will stay that way. I'll put the pictures from the seller in the gallery, then take some new ones to show the progress I have already made.

I've already asked you guys a few questions on the forums and thanks for the help. Can't wait to finish this awesome project and learn how to restore a car....

Derek

[Fun_in_my_z]

Hey Derek Welcome aboard. Sound like you found a real keeper

[kenz240z]

Wow, sounds like you found a great Z! Once you've been bitten by the Z car bug you just can't stay away!

[a7dz]

bought my 70 in 73 still got it.

[26th-Z]

Hey Derek,

What is your build date? April? You may want to register your car with Beck's site www.zhome.com He keeps track of the classics. What are your plans for the car?

Chris

[kurtwwalters]

Congrats Derek - I have HLS3003486. Guess it's not the earliest in AZ! Mine was in an outdoor storage yard for 10 years, now in my garage waiting for me to finish my 72. I'm in phoenix - I'd love to see it sometime.

[jackboxxx]

http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm

This is Carl Becks Register for the Z's, complete with who owns which #Z and how to contact them I just happened to have it bookmarked.

[ddezso]

I'm glad you asked about build date because several things about this car perplex me. The answers are probably obvious.

The idiot who last painted the car removed the door plate with build date and the serial # plate in the engine compartment (along with all of the exterior logos and painting the chrome door handles red).

The only place to get the VIN is on the dash.

In addition, the hatch does not have the vent holes and the defrost lines on the window are horizontal (I think they were vertical on a 1970 right?) It doesnt appear to have been in an accident but I can only conclude the hatch was a replacement. My plan is to recut holes in the existing hatch and put the grilles back over them. Would you guys cut holes or just put the grilles on?

The engine serial # is L26 112926 which from what I have read is certainly not original (anyone know the definitive answer on that?) It still has the original SU's though from what a guy told me who has had a bunch of Z's.

Otherwise it has the other characteristics of a 1970 - the fusecover/ashtray, center console, speedo starts at 20, temp gauge to 250 oil to 140, no holes near the small rear window for vents, little storage compartments behind the seats rather than in the rear deck......

I want to be legit when I register and I am sure the VIN is correct. Is there any way based on VIN to get the build date? Is there a database of that stuff?

As far as my plans they are to restore as close to stock as my budget (and wife's patience) will allow. It will be garaged and driven maybe once a week for a couple of miles to the car show we have every Saturday in Scottsdale. For me the fun is fixing it up and making it perfect so I can see myself constantly doing that for years. If I hit the lottery I'll pay someone to do a frame off....

Any thoughts on this would help satisfy some big time curiosity I have.....

Thanks as always!

[Arne]

Sounds like either a 70 or early 71. Mine is much the same, the hatch has been replaced with a later one. But since there are no vents under the emblems on the quarter panel, I'm sure that yours is also a Series I car.

The true chassis number is also stamped in the firewall, and that is the very best place to verify what you have. Look on the firewall to the right of the battery.

Replacement ID plates are available from several sources, Banzai, for example.

[jackboxxx]

Hey Derek,

Ill try to answer what I can, and certainly there are others here that know more of the details I hope they stop in here to help you out too,

1st,

based on what you say about the paint job, (removing all logos) theres a good chance that hatch you have is the orginal one...he probably just took those off too, and patched over them and painted..as for the lack of defroster elements, most of the old Z's orginal defrosters have worn out..the window elements...that is. Ive seen several people that have removed the elements completly from the window. you can check out your hatch more throughly, by looking for the orginal nissan marking on the glass, which could help in verifying that its not an aftermarket glass. look carefully along the top and bottom of the inside of the glass near the window seal..you may be able to see reminants of the old defroster markings. you can also take off that interior hatch trim piece and see inside for indications of the old vents.

if you by chance found the hatch to be orginal but the vent holes welded up..you might just want to modify some vent pieces to just be like an emblem and attach it with doublesided tape.

2nd.

Like Arne said, you can verify your vin on the firewall. its stamped into the metal, its unlikely the guy covered over that or anything else, and it would be the most accurate way to determne the true vin. (vin plates can be changed..though its very unlikely) then assuming your VIN is correct, your build date is April 1970.

3rd

The engine # you have is from a 260Z or maybe even something (diff model car) being put out by Datsun at the time of the 260Z. There used to be or maybe still are "japaneze motor warehouses" where you would buy used japan versions of your motor. I did this a couple times in the 80's. I dont know if you can even get L-series motors used from Japan anymore. I dont know a lot about what else abroad came with the L motors, someone else could help out here more than me. ((got any pictures of the motor?)) and this guy says you have the orginal carbs>? for the L-26 still on it? if this is true...then you very well may have the infamous flat top 260Z carbs...(take a pic and post it here) you could benefit performance wise from getting a nice set of earlyer Z carbs... and be closer to orginal 1970 style too. http://www.ztherapy.com go to this website for more info and lots of pics of Z carbs. they do good work.

hope this info helps out. go look at the Zcar registry (i left a link in my other post. to see when your car was built.

JacK

I'm glad you asked about build date because several things about this car perplex me. The answers are probably obvious.

The idiot who last painted the car removed the door plate with build date and the serial # plate in the engine compartment (along with all of the exterior logos and painting the chrome door handles red).

The only place to get the VIN is on the dash.

In addition, the hatch does not have the vent holes and the defrost lines on the window are horizontal (I think they were vertical on a 1970 right?) It doesnt appear to have been in an accident but I can only conclude the hatch was a replacement. My plan is to recut holes in the existing hatch and put the grilles back over them. Would you guys cut holes or just put the grilles on?

The engine serial # is L26 112926 which from what I have read is certainly not original (anyone know the definitive answer on that?) It still has the original SU's though from what a guy told me who has had a bunch of Z's.

Otherwise it has the other characteristics of a 1970 - the fusecover/ashtray, center console, speedo starts at 20, temp gauge to 250 oil to 140, no holes near the small rear window for vents, little storage compartments behind the seats rather than in the rear deck......

I want to be legit when I register and I am sure the VIN is correct. Is there any way based on VIN to get the build date? Is there a database of that stuff?

As far as my plans they are to restore as close to stock as my budget (and wife's patience) will allow. It will be garaged and driven maybe once a week for a couple of miles to the car show we have every Saturday in Scottsdale. For me the fun is fixing it up and making it perfect so I can see myself constantly doing that for years. If I hit the lottery I'll pay someone to do a frame off....

Any thoughts on this would help satisfy some big time curiosity I have.....

Thanks as always!

[26th-Z]

Derek,

Looking at the IZCC registry, I would say you have an April build date. There is no data-base that I am aware of. The engine is not original, however the carbs could be. I'll bet the hatch has been replaced with a later one. Sounds like it. The early vented hatches came with vertical defroster lines after serial number HLS30-01452.

This means that your car has no provision for interior ventilation. Not a huge issue - the vented hatches notoriously leak exhaust fumes. I wouldn't cut holes in the hatch. Just back-paint the hatch black undrneath the vent grills or leave the body shaved as it is. Shaved bodies are quite popular these days.

[ddezso]

Thanks again fellas.

I have attached some pictures of the engine and carbs to see what insight you may have.

Regarding the hatch, there are some 1970 hatch vents on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4586351752&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

My thought was to cut holes and attach these vents. I already have the replacement vent covers. That's probably more trouble than it's worth huh? Especially if I'm not going for a totally perfect restoration.....

I think I'll also order a replacement ID plate now that I see that is an option.

I looked at my firewall for a VIN and it is a bit dirty. Can you please help me get more specific regarding the location of the number?

Thanks