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I may be dumb but I'm slow


ddezso

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OK gents - this should be an easy one I hope.

Today I degreased and cleaned my engine. That went quite well. Looks much better and started right up after. I dont think it's a factor in my question but just so you know in case it is relevant.

Being a novice mechanic I thought it would be a good idea to check and adjust the timing. I went and got a light, hooked it up, and decided the distributor needed some tweaking to dial in the timing. So far so good....

In the process of loosening the distributor I loosened it quite a bit - so much in fact that it moved completely off where it started. I didnt understand that the adjustments are minute so I was pivoting it all over the place to see how far it moved. Now I can't get the car to start. It ran like normal after the cleaning and when the light was connected it was fine.

My assistant has come out and cranked the starter, while I slowly pivot the distributor to find the magical location where it will start and run. Nothing seems to work after about 15 minutes of that. Any ideas?

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I would check the inside of the distributor cap for any signs of water condensation, which may have been a result of the engine running after the cleaning. Furthermore, I would keep the cap off and let the car set overnight before trying to start it again.

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I would start like this. Try and set the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) once you set that you can loosen up the distributer and with the cap off and the ingnition in the ON position move ths distro until up see the spark where the number one wire would be. Then tighen up the distro and try and start it. Once started you can set the timing.

Good Luck,

John

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I few years ago I cleaned my engine and drove the car around the block. Next day, I started the car and it ran rough for a couple of days until the problem just went away on its own. Water has a strange way of messing with your ignition system until evaporation over time takes place.

By the way, are you getting any spark when trying to start the car?

Also, are you sure the carbs aren't flooded?

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How do I tell if I'm getting spark when I start the car and how do I tell if the carbs are flooded (told you I was a novice).

Remove the boot from the #1 plug and hold it just off of the top of the spark plug. Crank the engine to see if a spark arches from the plug wire to the spark plug. You may want to wear insulated gloves while doing this.

Flooded???

Is there a strong smell of gas in the engine compartment near the carbs? If so, it might be flooded.

I learned a trick from a Nissan mechanic when my ’73 flooded in front of the dealership a few years ago. He told me to open my hood. Then, he proceeded to pull the boots from all six spark plugs just enough so that they rested just off the top of the plugs. Next, he had me crank the engine until it started. He told me to rev the car a few times and then proceed to snap the plugs back into place.

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Even though it started more than once after the cleaning? I totally covered the cap with plastic as well during the cleaning.....

Theres a few things you can do to get rid of possible water in the system..

Use an air compressor to blow out all the possible affected areas, dist. spark plug boots (both ends) coil wire (both ends) the air pressure should push out most water and you can see the water run out (being pushed out) as you do it. a hair dryer can help dry up any areas that showed of having water.

Are your vent tubes open on the top of your float bowls? if so water could have got in there too...which could explain why it started up for a minute then wouldnt start again. it would use the gas from the nozzle through the small fuel line 1st & start then suck the water in the bowl through after that,

you could also have got a bunch of water in your air cleaner...

as far as timing goes, get it to the #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center, (top of is stroke..you can feel / see this through the spark plug hole, and from the rotor

pointing to the area of the cap where the #1 plug wire plugs in.

if it wont start still you can do a basic timing for it with 2 wires and a small blub like a parking light bulb..solder or connect 1 wire to the bottom of the bulb (+ side), the other to the side of the base (- side) of the bulb. i use aligator clips on the other end of the wires, then connect the + wire to the points where the power wire is.. the other wire to ground...then slowly rotate the distributor till the light comes on. once it does, you are close enough to being in time, that it should start...then you can more finely time it with a light. assuming all the water is gone from wherever.

before doing the timing, check for spark, from the coil...pull the distributer coil wire lay the end close to a good metal point on the car, crank it a bit, spark should jump to the metal point. i usually lay mine on the radiator

support next to the hood prop rod base.

then check for spark at a plug wire too..same process.

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[ .

In the process of loosening the distributor I loosened it quite a bit - so much in fact that it moved completely off where it started. I didnt understand that the adjustments are minute so I was pivoting it all over the place to see how far it moved. Now I can't get the car to start. It ran like normal after the cleaning and when the light was connected it was fine.

Is it possable that when the bolt was loosened as stated above that you lifted the dist up and it either became detached from the drive ? Dident you pay attention which way the vacume advance was facing ? What made you think that the timing was not right when you dident have a timing light attached and working ??

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