Cover the rear of the tranny where the drive shaft slides out with something.  Plastic bag tapped up good will work.  If not the fluid will spill out.  And the old wd-40 cap over the hood holder latch trick is helpful too.  Good luck.

5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Cover the rear of the tranny where the drive shaft slides out with something.  Plastic bag tapped up good will work.  If not the fluid will spill out.  And the old wd-40 cap over the hood holder latch trick is helpful too.  Good luck.

This is a good point, and it's after you drain the transmission fluid.  In case you were thinking you could pull it with the fluid in.  As things tilt, there will be residual fluid draining.  You could leave all of the fluid in but you'll need a much tighter seal.  

You'll probably need to remove the console also to get to the shifter.  The propeller shaft bolts will be hard to remove, but should be since you'll want the prop shaft off before pulling.  You can leave the slave cylinder hanging.  Remove the radiator, don't try to finesse the engine out with it in.  Take pictures or mark your parts with tape.  Use ink that won't rub off with greasy fingers, or put the label inside the bag.  There's a lot of small stuff that could/should be done before even hooking up the hoist.

A few thoughts in case it's your first time.  

I bought on of these at Lowes for a couple of bucks, 2" cap for the end of the transmission.  I also used it when cleaning the transmission as seen below.  Cheap oven cleaning foam from Walmart and a pressure washer.  Worked very well.

 

This is  my 1st engine pull in many years, where would you put the chains on the block   ? 

 

 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Zed Head said:

This is a good point, and it's after you drain the transmission fluid.  In case you were thinking you could pull it with the fluid in.  As things tilt, there will be residual fluid draining.  You could leave all of the fluid in but you'll need a much tighter seal.  

You'll probably need to remove the console also to get to the shifter.  The propeller shaft bolts will be hard to remove, but should be since you'll want the prop shaft off before pulling.  You can leave the slave cylinder hanging.  Remove the radiator, don't try to finesse the engine out with it in.  Take pictures or mark your parts with tape.  Use ink that won't rub off with greasy fingers, or put the label inside the bag.  There's a lot of small stuff that could/should be done before even hooking up the hoist.

A few thoughts in case it's your first time.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early Pictures as promised,

Since your manifolds are off you've lost at least one slinger.  Their general positions are shown in the FSM though.  Make your own and bolt them tightly to the head.

You could probably drop the cross member and just lift the remainder of the car shell off by hand.  Like an old VW Beetle.

I might just put the exhaust manifold back on,  I got a little ahead of my self.

You don't really need the manifold just the "slingers".

Here's the 280Z parts.  Couldn't find 240.    http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Cylinder-Head

Cool, I am headed to Harbor Freight for a chain lifter.

Fwiw, I always lift mine with ratchet straps round the engine rather than chains. I've got very limited height in my garage so I need to get the leveller as close to the engine as possible.