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Just bought a 76 280Z with two ?Weber? carbs on it. Is this right? All the write ups I've see indicate that Datsun/Nissan went to FI effective in 1975. How would I be able to tell if the car originally had FI and someone switched over to Carbs? Would the VIN have this information?

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280z was fuel injected. Those are probably of the weber family that is highly priced, and much debated. They often come in 3s... "triple webers". Take a close look at your manifold; it may provide the answers that you need. If not, there are plenty on this site that have had far more experience with webers that I. Just be careful not to overlook thier potential. Many think very highly of them. They are, as I said a very expensive "upgrade".


For max performance - change to early SUs for street, or possibly side-draft Webers for track.

For emissions legality (if required) - change back to injection.

If it runs good enough for your purposes now, leave well-enough alone. Those Webers may not be the best carbs, if it ain't broke...

i dont feel like making another thread and cloggin up the site with more threads, but as for performance increases is there anything i can buy for my FI to make my Z have more accel and power (or would i have to go to carbs)? im not necessarily worried about gas mileage as my 1976 280z will only be a weekend/track car. Any input would be great (sorry for stealing the thread!)

No worries Zman525. I just found out that I actually have round top SUs on mine, which then begs another question: How old is this motor?! Runs fine, but had a lot of valve noise, even more than usual. Runs strong, doesn't burn oil, just noisy.

No worries Zman525. I just found out that I actually have round top SUs on mine, which then begs another question: How old is this motor?! Runs fine, but had a lot of valve noise, even more than usual. Runs strong, doesn't burn oil, just noisy.
Noise may simply be loose valve adjustment. Look for the block and head casting numbers to get a rough idea of the age of the engine.

The block casting number is on the intake side, down low on the side of the block just above the oil pan, and behind the engine mount. Common L28 casting numbers would be N42 (early) and F54 (late).

The head casting number is on the spark plug side, between cylinders 1 & 2, right where the head meets the block. A non-turbo L28 could have come with N42, N47 or P79.

We can debate this forever. I think if you already have SUs, keep them. Depending upon how the conversion was done, you may have a lot of parts to source. Expensive little parts that are diminishing in supply. You can't really make the statement that 'SUs give you HP' usless you are unimformed (or 12 yrs old). Many factors are involved there.

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