Total Suspension Overhaul

[bpilati]

Well I'm about 60-70% complete. The rear is finished, and boy does it look good. I painted every part and added the Suspension Techniques anti-sway bar. I'll take pics when my camera is fixed. I think yall are going to love this. It really came out nice. I also found a collapsed strut cartridge in one of the front struts. Boy is that ever a strange phenomenon to find. The strut rod wouldn't even budge, I wonder how long I've been driving with that????

:cross-eye

[=Enigma=]

I'd be wondering what sort of damage that may have caused to the chassis. Hopefully none. Can't wait to see the pics. I'm in the process of doing the same thing. The painted parts sure do look mighty purty!

[gator]

me too .. I am driving a pillow right now. I think every rubber bushing is shot and the shocks (struts) are gone too.

Bryan .. tell me how hard it was to change the struts. I have done alot of mech work .. but for some odd reason neve changed struts. Do I need a spring compresser?

My mechanic friend told me to take my springs out of my 240 parts car and install them with new tokico or kyb struts. he also said for me to remove the upper block on my 280 and install the one from the 240. this will lower the car.

anyone comment on this theory?

Thanks ..Bruce

[bpilati]

You need a spring compressor, can't do it without one. Don't rig anything up, it's not worth the risk. Other than that it's pretty normal stuff. I don't believe there is any chassis damage. I only got to test drive it a bit with the rear suspension complete, but I noticed an immediate difference. The compression rod bushings and anti-sway bar bushings were long over due. The new bushings are Prothane brands, and seem to be made well. I hope to notice a huge difference in response and ride. All four bump stops were down to nothing.

[xray]

Bryan:

I finished up my suspension redo recently also. Wow, what an improvement! Of course, it's been subsequently dismantled to begin underbody resto, but I had to drive it just once after finishing. I have to say my favorite part was burning out the remaining old rubber bushings. The image of the moustache bar burning on both ends was great--not to mention annoying my neighbors!

Congrats on the milestone...

S

[RIP260Z]

Gator,

The rear insulation bush at the top of the rear suspension is taller on the later bodied zed. In theory it will lower, but I have no idea if it works (maybe someone else knows). The other thing to be aware of if putting in inserts to your existing struts, is the top lock nut is rather large and can be a bit of a pain to get undone. But have a search on previous threads on how other people have got on (I remember Gav240z had a thread on this).

A tip I used when using spring compressors to help them from sliding down the coil, was to use some hefty cable ties on the spring to stop them slipping. The Tom Monroe book on How to restore your Z uses vice grips.

Regards

Ian

[bpilati]

Gator,

The rear insulation bush at the top of the rear suspension is taller on the later bodied zed. In theory it will lower, but I have no idea if it works (maybe someone else knows). The other thing to be aware of if putting in inserts to your existing struts, is the top lock nut is rather large and can be a bit of a pain to get undone. But have a search on previous threads on how other people have got on (I remember Gav240z had a thread on this).

A tip I used when using spring compressors to help them from sliding down the coil, was to use some hefty cable ties on the spring to stop them slipping. The Tom Monroe book on How to restore your Z uses vice grips.

Regards

Ian

HAHAHAHAHAHAH

[=Enigma=]

I had no such sliding problem. Toget the top nut off the strut, be sure you loosen it partially before rmoving the strut from the car. i forgot and had to bolt it back into the car to break it loose. No vise avail.

[AChev]

I am having trouble with the nut-cap that holds the sturt cartridge in the tower. Does anybody have any tips or avice for me on this one? I had to buy a very large wrench specifically for this nut, I got one undone. Although, this one has given me large amounts of trouble. I tried some WD-40 penetrant and I also tried useing a torch to heat it. I put bas of the strut tower in a vice, and then on the other end i use my large wrnech to no avail. How did you guys get yours off? Maybe I need some better penetrant like PB Blaster or something

[kenz240z]

Just to clarify, are you referring to the mounting insulator? It's the part with three threaded studs that mounts the strut assembly into the tower? It is secured to the end of the strut cartridge with a single nut. (As a reminder, you need to compress the spring first, otherwise removing that nut would let everything come apart in a hurry, and possibly cause yourself a bit of injury... :hurt: )

I used an impact wrench and it removed the nut rather easily. If you don't have an impact wrench, try using a pry bar. Hold it between the studs on the insulator to keep it from turning while you use a socket on a breaker bar to remove the nut.

Another way would be to re-mount the strut in the strut tower, then use a socket on a breaker bar to break the nut loose. Don't undo it, just break it loose so you can remove it after you've compressed the spring.

Of course, a combination of these efforts may be required.

[AChev]

No I'm am not referring to that part. I have an impact wrnech as well and used it for that piece

I am referring to the nut that holds the strut cartridge in the black tube. It has a very large diameter which made buying a larger wrench necessary. I am referring to the "Gland Packing Assembly" as stated by the FSM. The FSM says I should use a gland packing wrench, although I am sure there is some way around it, as many people on this site do suspension upgrades. Anybody with a tip?

[dhoneycutt]

I am referring to the "Gland Packing Assembly" as stated by the FSM. The FSM says I should use a gland packing wrench, although I am sure there is some way around it, as many people on this site do suspension upgrades. Anybody with a tip?

I just used a pipe wrench and a vise. No problems!