I had no such sliding problem. Toget the top nut off the strut, be sure you loosen it partially before rmoving the strut from the car. i forgot and had to bolt it back into the car to break it loose. No vise avail.

Nah, air wrench takes it right off on the bench.

I am having trouble with the nut-cap that holds the sturt cartridge in the tower. Does anybody have any tips or avice for me on this one? I had to buy a very large wrench specifically for this nut, I got one undone. Although, this one has given me large amounts of trouble. I tried some WD-40 penetrant and I also tried useing a torch to heat it. I put bas of the strut tower in a vice, and then on the other end i use my large wrnech to no avail. How did you guys get yours off? Maybe I need some better penetrant like PB Blaster or something

I know to some I will be speaking sacrilege, but you should get an understanding about what WD-40 is and what it was invented for. Use PB penetrant with the yellow cap. You can see it go right in, not down the side of your strut tower. Everyone runs to the store to buy cans and cans of WD-40. It is not the great things you think. Liquid Wrench and PB are the best.

Ok, now I see. I couldn't get any of them off by myself. But, with someone to hold the strut assembly by the spindle, another guy can get the gland nut off with a large wrench. Definitely a two-man job.

Nah, air wrench takes it right off on the bench.

Sorry Bryan, not all of us are fortunate enough to have an air wrench. The method I described was to benefit those who don't. Shhhhhh.

I used an 18" cresent wrench. I happened to already own one. After I got the nut off the top of the strut housing I could not remove the strut from the housing. Even after spraying a lot of PB Blaster in. I took mine to a local small alignment shop and he removed it for me without damaging the housing. He didn't charge me, but I made sure to give him the alignment business after I was done.

As to the spring compressor, AutoZone will loan you a set after a $40 deposit. You will get your money refunded upon the return. I ended up not using them. I pointed them away from me and when I removed the top nut, the spring flew all of 2-3 feet. I was pretty nervous though. I replaced them with Tokico springs and no compressor is needed to install since they are designed to lower the car 1 inch. Now on to the rears!

God speed!

NWcubsman, you're not right you know that, you're just not.

reminds me of two mates replacing springs in a gemini van they got a 12 ft long 6x2 piece of wood and pushed it under a steel work bench to lever down on the spring idea was to push it down then one hold it while the other one tied a rope around the spring to hold it compressed to put it back in the van (great ideas come in a beer carton) so they managed to compress the spring next thing the spring fought back and flew out from under the wood hit the roof 12 ft off the floor and dented the roofing iron

they bought spring compressors the next day

Mick

That just sound dumb enough to be true.

tokico or kyb ?? what is better .. ??

Some spring compressors much more prone to slip than others. The ones where the concave piece that grabs the spring is wider (say, an inch) are less likely to slip. The ones where it's more like a simple hook are the ones that skid sideways where you don't want them.

I can't remember -- on some cars, with the front strut, once it's loose from the fender, you can mash down with your foot, on the control arm, and the strut will clear the fender without being disconnected from the control arm. Others, it won't. Will it do this on a 240?

Steve

gator, I don't really think there is a better between tokico and kyb. I know kyb has a lifetime warranty and I imagine tokico does too. The tokico illuminas are famous so lots of people that want adjustable shocks buy them. KYB also makes an adjustable shock that is less well known than their standard GR-2 gas shock. I wouldn't get hung up over names, find the best deal and get that. Frankly I think most people that buy the Tokico Illuminas just want them, whether they're going to race or not. It's like putting NO2 bottles in street cars, or yellow springs, red bushings or any other non-essential item. Real racers care about function more than looks. Pretend racers care about looks more than function. Don't mistake pretend racers with people that have common sense, because I think many are lemmings shoppers.