Turn signal Malfunction

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by visionary

I was using the doctine of double effect otherwise known as the lesser of two evils in my troubleshooting of this problem.

However, the principle of Occam's Razor, "pluralitas non est penenda sine necessitate" or dont't create unnecessary entities, was in fact the correct application.

Huh?:cross-eye

[visionary]

I was responding to EScanlon's remarks concerning diagnostic method.

Keith

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by visionary

I was responding to EScanlon's remarks concerning diagnostic method.

Kinda figured that, was just wondering what language you were responding in!!!! Was that Ebonics? Vulcan? or.........?

[2ManyZs]

I think he was trying to say it was something simple.... kinda like a slap on the forehead?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 2ManyZs

I think he was trying to say it was something simple.... kinda like a slap on the forehead?

Ouch! I wondered what that pain above my eyes was. :stupid:

"Tanks" (speel check still not working )

Carl

[visionary]

Latin, we had to take it in high school...

[EScanlon]

Glad you solved it.

Occam's Razor is fancyspeak for K.I.S.S.. Everyone knows what Keep It Simple Stupid stands for, and although this is what Occam's Razor boils down to, sometimes, Occam's Razor is also used in reverse.

When I studied Mechanical Engineering we were taught that sometimes the most efficient mechanism is the simplest. i.e. least amount of moving parts, less complexity, etc.

Occam's Razor when applied to problem solving is simply to NOT confuse the problem by adding to it, but simply approach the items involved at that point without looking for more.

What Keith probably found was that either one of the bulb filaments at the front was burned out, or a bad wire connection up there.

[Nigel Mulvey]

Well said Enrique.

QED.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Nigel Mulvey

Well said Enrique.

...........................and in English too!!!!!!!!!!

A fine example of K.I.S.S.

[visionary]

Let me keep this simple...

I have completed continuity checks on all wires to the turn signal and have continuity in all of the wires, both to the signal switch and to the parking light stalk switch.

The turn signal indicator works in the tach, UNTIL, I replace the bulb in the front turn signal socket, THEN the indicator in the tach fails. All bulbs are new, etc. I have not replaced the flasher pod or the hazard flash pod. Hazards work, signal does not work, parking light does not work, turn signal indicator works when turn signal bulb is removed from front socket, turn signal indicator does NOT work with bulb in socket, contiuity check OK on bulb cable socket, rear not malfunctioning...

At the risk of being to verbose, I will stop here.

Thanks

Keith

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by visionary

Let me keep this simple...

The turn signal indicator works in the tach, UNTIL, I replace the bulb in the front turn signal socket, THEN the indicator in the tach fails. All bulbs are new, etc.............. turn signal indicator works when turn signal bulb is removed from front socket, turn signal indicator does NOT work with bulb in socket, contiuity check OK on bulb cable socket, rear not malfunctioning.............

Keith:

Have you tried more than one bulb in the socket? COULD it possibly be a bad bulb? Does the other turn signal work? Have you swapped bulbs? I've purchased new bulbs before, and gotten a "lemon". BTW, is the socket clean and shiney, or all rusted up?

I'm not expert, but I can't imagine what else could be the problem.

[visionary]

Yeah Carl,

I have serveral bulbs and have switched them around. I also have another socket connector ( the one that runs from the harness on the front framerail to the turn signal) and have interchanged those with the same results.

I have found that the factory connector from the turn signal switch has begun to melt on the corner that the green/yellow wire connects at and am considering elimating the connector and replacing them with new single wire connectors.

This is a difficult failure to figure out. I think there may be short somewhere in the wiring, either at connection points, through the fuse box or from stresses of heat and/or wear within the harness over time.

Where, is the direction of diagnosis which I will proceed with. I will begin to run a bypass wire from switch to subsequent connection points on all wires until I can isolate a short point or an unreliable connection route.

If that doesn't work, I will throw money at the problem with a professional automotive electrition.

Will post any progress...

Keith:dead: