You don't have a factory Service Manual?

*Gulp* ... no...

I'm working on it... 'waiting 'til I see a super cheap used one on ebay. :squareeye

By the way, for a radiator replacement / thermostat, you don't need to drain the block; when you disconnect the bottom main hose to the radiator it will drain most of the fluid out...no need to wrestle with the engine drain.

Ahh, good to know. Yeah, I'm pretty sure that most of my radiator fluid is bad, so it's all gotta go... last time I smelt it, it didn't even smell like antifreeze... more like... rancid maple syrup...

The thermostat is a good analogy to the fan clutch--pay for factory so you don't have to do it again. Anything other than factory thermostat you're just gambling with having to take it back out...I've had nothing but problems with thermostats from NAPA/Schucks, etc.

Yeah... you guys are slowly makin' converts outta me... (OEM! OEM!)

Don't revel in it for too long though. ARR :pirate:

I took a look at the fan clutch last winter while the F.I. was off. Do you need to take off the fan shroud before the fan? It's pretty tight, IMO.

Either I'll get to the fan clutch over the winter, or I'll get it done first thing in the spring. Should I get the whole radiator pulled, boiled & repainted? Do you think the radiator guy can make the radiator look really nice? I wouldn't want it taken out unless I can do some restoration on it.

You'll have to remove the top half of the shroud to get at the fan and clutch. When I did mine, I just replaced the radiator. I figured since I was replacing things such as all the coolant hoses, the thermostat, the water pump, belts, and hoses, I might as well replace the radiator too while I had everything apart. You can clean up an old one and paint it but a new one looks nicer. It's not that much more costly than a quality rod out, and repair. Plus it's peace of mind. I do believe that my old radiator was the original one.

KDMatt,

One thing some people forget to do when replacing cooling system parts is to flush out the block. In most cases a thin film of iron oxide (rust) builds up on the interior surfaces of the entire cooling system and acts as an insulator, preventing efficient heat transfer. Just some food for thought!

Should I order a new radiator, or do you think the rad shop can get me the CORRECT one?

VB wants $180 for a 75-78 3-row radiator; not bad.

I bought a Modine radiator from a local shop for $140. It fit correctly and I've had no problems with it.

bought a 3-row from MSA for about $220 delivered.

good quality, no probs.

looks a little different from OEM (no top fan guard), but fits and performs well. it did take a while to get since they were in the middle of changing suppliers, but that was in May '05. should be resolved by now, i would think.

be warned the MSA radiator is a generic, comes with auto trans cooler fittings on the bottom of the rad.

shouldn't be a problem for Tomo (you've got an auto, IIRC, right?). just plug for a manual.

I briazed the holes closed, ground them smooth and repainted the bottom tank. But you don't really have to plug them for a stick. Most people just leave them open since nothing will be running through them.

yea steve, i know.

i'm too chicken to un-solder and clean up the bottom of the radiator. .

and i still haven't attempted to find the right sized caps for them (metric?). i think they look incomplete just sitting there.

just figure'd i'd let the guys know what they were buying (as of 5/05 that is).