oops your profile is updated, sorry

If that's the 4 wire prong relay (red/blu, wht/blu, blu/red, black), I've got three of them. We discussed them in another thread and I guess there are three wire and four wire accessory relays for the 240Z. At any rate, they're not for any of my cars and if anyone needs them, you can have them for postage.

Hi Stephen,

PM comin' your way.

Gary S.

Thanks for the offer Stephen.

I guess I need to check to see if I need 3 wire or 4 wire relay.

I will get back in touch.

Mark

This is a really stupid question, but I assume that you checked the inline fuse with an ohm meter... On my car the only thing that was wrong with the blower was the fuse. It didn't LOOK blown. It apparently had stress fractured.

This is a really stupid question, but I assume that you checked the inline fuse with an ohm meter... On my car the only thing that was wrong with the blower was the fuse. It didn't LOOK blown. It apparently had stress fractured.

Not a stupid question at all Walter. I did check the fuse, as well as the fuses in the fuse box...all is well. I'm beginning to feel more confident that the relay is the problem. More on that later.

Gary S.

In the interest of disseminating accurate information on this forum, I am posting some information that was shared with me by another forum member. To note:

The ONLY function of the Accessory relay is to power the Rear Window Defrost circuit. If the Acc Relay fails, you don't have R Window Defrost, but everything else will still work.

The BLOWER connects to the same Blue/Red wire that powers the Acc Relay but is independent of the Acc Relay (you could even remove the Acc Relay and you would still have power at the blower).

So, the only reason to check the Blue / Red wire at the ACC relay is to verify power, because that Blue / Red wire supplies power to the blower motor before it gets to the ACC relay.

Gary S.

Have the same think Mark (Honda blower, new switch, doesn't work). Thinking about actually paying someone to trace it down later this winter or early spring.

Almost unrelated, but when I replaced my blower with the new Honda one, I simply removed the glove box...

When I replaced it, I noticed that my box is probably original, and really in bad shape...I had to kinda smash it flatter to get it out through the glove box door...I miraculously didn't damage it much, but I bet I could if I tried it again....

When servicing the blower, and you don't want to take the dash out, is there a better way to remove the glove box other than how I did it--pulling it out through the glove box door hole?

Thanks guys and I hope all the electrical fan issues are fixed!! ON the first few cold days here in Portland, this Honda blower just freakin rocks compared to the old one--I actually have to turn it down pretty quick (in the past I never turned it off of max).

I managed to remove and re-install the entire blower housing without ever touching the glove box. I was on by back, upside down under the dash, reaching around things and working on bolts that I could only feel not see, but I did it.

I may have had the heater control panel out, and my car was built in April of 71 so it may be a little different...