Planning on something like that. Someone has already tried to do that in the two dual gages, with very sloppy, poor results. So I'm going to have to try to clean that up while I'm in there.

It also looks like none of the small gages still have their green bulb cover in them. To get them all to match, I may have to remove those from the tach and speedo as well, then use colored bulbs instead.

Arne,

I am changing my gauge faces to (Ricer) white and I am also going to remove the green bulb covers and use colored bulbs. If you are interested... I am going to have those bulb covers. Provided I can get the d@#!& things out without breaking the little tabs off. Let me know if you want them. I would be happy to send them to you.

Hey E,

I also have my dash out refurbishing it.

Sorry...but I have to ask. What are R/C cars? I would like to possibly consider using that paint and I don't know what the acronym R/C means.

Since my computer has decided to slow down from high speed to drunken speed, this question has probably already been answered, but here goes Radio Controlled.

Arne,

I am changing my gauge faces to (Ricer) white and I am also going to remove the green bulb covers and use colored bulbs. If you are interested... I am going to have those bulb covers. Provided I can get the d@#!& things out without breaking the little tabs off. Let me know if you want them. I would be happy to send them to you.

Let's wait until I am sure that my gauges are otherwise OK. I'd hate to put you out if I end up replacing them anyway. Thanks!

Jack:

As it was posted it is Radio Control.

I'll explain why such an "esoteric" paint type, but it IS a somewhat convoluted explanation so bear with me or jump to the end for the product details.

I do a lot of painting, from model cars to REAL cars. Model cars require a vastly different paint from Real cars, and Radio Control car bodies are even MORE different. Simply put, Model and Full Size cars typically get a "hard" paint, i.e. one that does little to no flexing. In fact to make it even marginally flexible you usually add a "Plasticizer" to the paint so you can paint over Vinyl / Rubber bumpers.

Unfortunately, in my experience, the paints for Model cars are either a very high gloss product with little "color" per coat of paint OR a low gloss with high color (sometimes even flat sheen). I wanted to paint the inside of the instruments with a VERY high sheen and in ONE or two coats at most.

Where both a full size and a model car get painted in such a manner that the FINAL coat is the "show" coat, Radio Control Car bodies are painted in the completely REVERSE manner. The FIRST coat of paint IS the money coat ... so to speak. That's because the body is made out of clear plastic, and the paint is applied from the inside.

That being said, many times you use "fluorescent" paints as well as Candy colors. These require a super bright White in order to liven or "make" the final color really shine.

Additionally, R/C cars that are Nitro gas powered also require a paint that will seal the color coat from the heat and oils and dirt being sprayed on the body from below. Topping all that off, the paint needs to be flexible.

Enter PACTRA - Racing Finish for R/C cars in Sprint White (I goofed calling it Polar). It's number is RC51, you can get it in spray, or in liquid form which is what I bought it in so that I could brush it on. The SKU IS 7 22646 40200 9 for the 2/3 FL. OZ bottle and that will go a LONG way. This is one of the BRIGHTEST white paints you will work with. Don't forget to buy their thinner to clean up your brush, or you won't be able to (regular lacquer thinner doesn't cut it and acetone curdles it). Lastly, it WILL take about 12-18 hours to dry but....the results are simply awesome.

The paint flows out very nicely and will leave a HIGH gloss, SMOOTH surface that will literally reflect every bit of light in the can. I used this same paint on the plastic areas of my tail-lights (not the metal) and the difference in the light is very noticeable.

That's it. Hope it helps.

Enrique

so you are talking about painting the inside of the cup that the instrument is in?

If so, another option would be a chrome powdercoat.

I'm eventually putting the speedhut faces on mine. (black with indiglo numbers, so it looks close to stock with lights off)

so you are talking about painting the inside of the cup that the instrument is in?

If so, another option would be a chrome powdercoat.

I'm eventually putting the speedhut faces on mine. (black with indiglo numbers, so it looks close to stock with lights off)

Powdercoating is excellent stuff, except it requires heat.

I note your signature line so maybe I have it wrong and you have a cold powdercoating process.

Otherwise the heat would melt the green lenses that are fused to the cases such that removing them would not be an option in order to use a heated process. You CAN remove the, but it is a very tricky process, not something I'd want to do just to paint the inside.

But if you DO have a cold powdercoating process, I'd be interested in knowing more.

E

That's it. Hope it helps.

Enrique

E,

Thanks...alot. I just ordered it from Testors along with the thinner. Did you use the spray can for your tail lights?

Let's wait until I am sure that my gauges are otherwise OK. I'd hate to put you out if I end up replacing them anyway. Thanks!

Arne,

Just let me know... I will be happy to do it.

Arne,

Just let me know... I will be happy to do it.

Sent you a PM.

I had a large bottle of the paint, from when I was painting a bunch of the clear lexan bodies with fluorescent paints. I was painting those with an airbrush, but I chose to paint the tail-lights with a 1/2" brush to ensure I didn't get any paint on the metal reflectors back there.

Enrique

Update - The dash harness has been replaced!! As well as the horribly melted fusebox. I think it's all better now, we'll see if the car still draws the battery down while it's sitting. If not, I've got it licked.

Man, the dash is a lot harder to put back in the car, than it was to remove it!

Man, the dash is a lot harder to put back in the car, than it was to remove it!

Hmmmm....How do mean? Everything in my car is out. I have insulated and am just now starting to deal with the wiring and then the heater box and controls. So.... I have the dash still to be put back in. What are some of the challenges you ran into putting it back?