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Tie rod end


mriz

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I can't seem to get the tie rod end disconnected from knuckel so I can remove the strut housing and will need to get a fork. Any specific size and advice? Also the grease boot is shot at the end of the tie rod. The urethane kit comes with the tie rod end boots but I can't see how these hold grease like the soft ones on the car or am I completely off base? Thanks

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Hi Jim,

You might look for a pickle fork kit that has different fork heads of different sizes. If you have an air compressor, get a fork that attaches to your air hammer, it will make the job much easier.

I couldn't get the tie rod end boots that came with the urethane kit to fit. Fortunately my old ones were in good shape. I think you can get the proper replacements from MSA or Victoria British.

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mriz:

another option, but may be a bit pricey...

http://eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2474&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=tie+rod

If you unbolt the knuckle from the strut, you still have the castellated nut and cotter pin to deal with, and they are torqued down pretty well in addition to extra corrosion/rust...I used the pickle fork and a BFH, and since it (the front end) was all getting replaced, smacked it with impunity! Couple BIG hits and it popped off.

Just get real mad before you hit it!

Steve

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I went with NAPA, and would do so again. Bought some off Ebay, and one of the bolt holes was misaligned--ugh...

After they've been on awhile, I noticed the began to rust. I'm planning on removing them, sanding off the rust and clearcoating it just to keep it looking nice...

Steve

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Managed to get the castellated nut off but the one on the strut housing is frozen so it looks like more tools to the collection.

Clarify? Are you talking about the bolts holding the steering knuckle to strut bolts? Those are pretty well torqued in, and I remember having to add a length of pipe to my 24" breaker bar to get those off...Man, that front end resto sucked...

Steve

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