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Tie rod end


mriz

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amen to that!!

i laughed when my son bought one, said i'm not running a tire shop here.

until i used it, of course.

haven't broken a bolt since. the hammering action seems to really break loose the rustiest bolts without the problem of constant torque slowly snapping the bolt.

assuming you're talking about the strut gland nut. soak for a while with PBblaster/kroil/Liquid Wrench then just use a big pipe or monkey wrench. she'll come off.

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A couple of tips from someone who does this sort of thing for living.

-To brake a tierod end taper you neen to hit the steering arm on the side where the taper goes through it. Use a descent size hammer and leave the nut on incase you miss. I don't recommend Forks, all they do is wreck the boots. A good ball joint seperator is handy, for a tidy finish.

-There are brands of ball joints in OZ that are coated that don't get surface rust, I can look them up for you if need.

-When tightning gland nuts on struts they need to be super tight, tighten the nut then tap it down with a punch ( Be carefull on the shaft) Then tighten again. Repeat steps again.

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Impact wrench(350 ft lbs torque) had no effect and I'd already left enough of my skin on the car for one day,so i'll get more band aids and go at it this weekend. Thats the one X- RAY.Thanks for gland nut tip 240kman ,the ball joint is good unless I wreck that too but boot needs to be replaced . But just in case could you post those ball joints in case I do another while I'm at it deal.

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Can someone remind me pls. The toe in adjustment holding nuts on the tie rod ends are threaded differently on each side, right? Which side has those left hand threads? Excuse my ignorance of the proper names please.

Just got my KYB's today. Checking on my supply of bandaids before starting. 240KMAN, I assume you are saying that those gland nuts will work their way loose unless you really tighten them well.

don

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