Windshield.

[theianmonster]

The outter seal on my windshield is pretty shot. If I take out the outter seal, will the windshield fall out? It really needs to be replaced, but when I tried to pull the glass out of my parts car the glass cracked. Any advice?

- Ian.

[Ed]

Take a box knife and carefully cut the rubber around the stainless trim until it practically falls out. Try not to bend the stainless trim because if it's deformed then it will be a pain to re-install. To remove your windshield use the same method. Take the box knife and cut the old rubber seal around the edge of the windshield until you can lift the windshield out of the car. Once the windshield is out you can remove the rest of the rubber.

Installation is a whole different ball of wax. I would highly recommend that you have a pro do it. The new seal is what is known as a "dirt seal" if anyone talks about using silicone to install your new seal then go to someone else. Silicone should never be used on the windshield of the Z.

[beandip]

I had a pro install a new windshield and he used my gasket. I had a set for the whole car from progressive . Do NOT let the installer cut the new gasket and glue in the windshield . these winshields must be roped in to do it correctly . The installers wanted $120. using my gasket to install my windshield and no garentee if they cracked the glass. $220. for a all new install using my gasket . Gary

[beandip]

I had a pro install a new windshield and he used my gasket. I had a set for the whole car from progressive . Do NOT let the installer cut the new gasket and glue in the windshield . these winshields must be roped in to do it correctly . The installers wanted $120. using my gasket to install my windshield and no garentee if they cracked the glass. $220. for a all new install using my gasket . This is one thing I dident want to attempt my self . Gary

[a7dz]

Ian;

There is no inner and outer seal. It is all one piece. It is and "H" seal the glass goes in one side and the window frame in the other. I am going to follow Beandips lead and let the glass man do it.

[kenz240z]

I removed the windshield and gasket from my Z by using a couple of wide putty knives. I think I started in the center and slowy worked towards the outer edges. Once I got the top edge loose I was able to push the windshield out without breaking it. But, I had to replace it anyway because it was pitted and starting to fog up.

I had Triumph Auto Glass put in a new windshield. The installer came to my house and did the install. I paid $190, which included a new windshield for $146.96, a new OEM style gasket for $31.11 and $11.93 in tax. The installer even put the stainless trim back in. I've never had any problems with water leaks, the guy did a good job.

[26th-Z]

Exactly!

Cut the old windshirled out and rope the new one in with soapy water. This is OLD technology. Get an old guy with experience to do it.

[Carl Beck]

Hi Ed/Jim (everyone):

I'm not sure Ed, what you mean by "Silicone", or "using Silicone to install". That is to say, that there are silicone based sealants, caulks, and adhesives. All have different properties and applications. An adhesive is required, and there are some pretty good silicone based adhesives on the market today. (most sealants and caulks stay pliable/tacky and can be easily pulled apart later - an adhesive adheres or bonds to the materials to which it is applied).

Let's take a look at it as drawn in the Factory Service Manuals.

<a href=http://ZHome.com/zcarfilesJPEG/WindshieldSealSm.jpg TARGET=NEW>http://ZHome.com/zcarfilesJPEG/WindshieldSealSm.jpg</a>

The windshield gasket/seal.. is actually a little more complex than a simple "H", as the "H" does not take into account the critical function of the windshield molding. That stainless steel molding is actually there to provide strength and rigidity to the seal, and to prevent the glass from flexing too far forward in the seal - as pressure changes take place in the cabin. The glass actually overlaps the lip in the windshield frame, as opposed to butting up against it (as it would in an "H" type seal).

Also note that the "lip" inside the windshield frame is not perfectly flat and smooth.. which means that the seal will not perfectly seal against it.. there are very small gaps where water can run though and into the car.

As there are production tolerances on all four components.. the windshield glass, the windshield frame, the windshield lip (the lip is inside the frame) and the seal itself - an adhesive should be applied to the interface between the exterior glass and the seal. A Silicone adhesive or the good old 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (aka Gorilla Snot) is fine.

This is especially true if you are using an after-market glass, as they are not cast to the same exacting tolerances as the OEM windshields. (I've had to have two of them replaced due to distortion that was beyond acceptable limits). IMHO with after-market windshield glass it is Very Important to use an adhesive to secure the seal to the glass.

Secondly - an adhesive is required between the seal and the window frame. Again this is very important with cars that are 33+ years old - previous body work, the slightest shifting of the frame as the car's body twists/flexes with age and use etc.. Over the years there is nothing to say that the window frame is still exactly the shape it was when the car left the factory.. and the slightest variation can allow a leak

If the engineers at Nissan say that an adhesive is needed/required.. you can bet that this sealing system was designed to use an adhesive - and if they tell me to use one - I'll take their word for it. (I've had too many of them leak when I didn't follow the directions/spec.'s).

Yes, if you are using all Nissan OEM parts (windshield glass, seals), you might get away with out using any sealants or adhesives 8 out of 10 times... but throw in a after-market glass and/or seal - and install that all into a 33+ year old unibody (that may have twisted a tad, or had it's window frame reworked etc.)... and you'll most likely wind up with a leak somewhere.

Professional installers usually want to run a small bead of sealant around the edge of the glass, then install the seal over the glass. With todays sealants/adhesives that might work as well... as just applying an adhesive to the outside edge of the glass and interfacing seal. But you still need the adhesive between the exterior window frame and the seal.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Carl Beck

Clearwater, FL USA

http://ZHome.com