Arne, where does the diode go in the plug n play adapter? i'm currently trying to do this wiring conversion, too.

Thanks,

Ty

It would be self-contained within my adapter. If you are doing this swap on your own without the adapter, there have been lots of posts here in the forums about how to wire it up. I'm not going to go through it all again here in yet another thread.

I've spent a good couple hours searching the various z car websites reading about the wiring and the diode over the past couple weeks and could only find minimal information about where to actually put the diode.

So i just searched this site again, and I found the following post which has the exact information i was looking for.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5957&highlight=zx+alternator

The specific information i was looking for is:

"Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white

stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with

black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched

12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from

flowing. "

Good luck with producing these adapters.

Thanks Arne.

I've spent a good couple hours searching the various z car websites reading about the wiring and the diode over the past couple weeks and could only find minimal information about where to actually put the diode.

So i just searched this site again, and I found the following post which has the exact information i was looking for.

Good luck with producing these adapters. if i hadn't invested so much time into finding out how to do it myself, i would want to buy one!

tttz,

Seriously...If Arne had given you the hookup of the diode info. ...you still wouldn't buy his wiring adapter.

You were looking for a free lunch. So... why so smug?

Arne, my apologies for being smug. I respect that you didn't want to repost information.

-Ty

No offense taken. Don't sweat it.

Not a bad looking product but honestly if you are going to upgrade alternators, I would suggest an early 90s maxima alternator.

You get 90 amp compared to 65 and the only additonal thing I could see you needing is to change the bushing and put your exisiting Vband pulley on for the belts.

Moving to the ZX alternator, to me is a waste for such little gain.

Moving to the ZX alternator, to me is a waste for such little gain.

Definitely some truth to that. On the other hand, for cars like mine which will not have a big sound system, but just a pair of hotter headlights, the electronic ignition and perhaps a simple un-amplified head unit in it, 60 -70 amps should do just fine. Why mess with the pulleys if you don't need to. And frankly, is the 35 year old wiring in these cars good enough to make use of the extra output of the Maxima alternator? Don't know. I certainly won't discourage anyone from the 90 amp upgrade, if you need the extra power it'd be the way to go.

I'm not an auto electrician but having such a high amp alternator with an old wiring system isn't it a receipe for disaster? (Increase the chances of an electrical fire?)

Anyone have more info on this swap?

I'm not an auto electrician but having such a high amp alternator with an old wiring system isn't it a receipe for disaster? (Increase the chances of an electrical fire?)

Anyone have more info on this swap?

Actually, No.

At least so long as you leave the stock fusable links in place. These are what actually protects the wiring of the car anyway, as the battery is fully capable of producing hundreds of amps for a short time.

Personally, I have retrofitted a chrome plated 100 amp GM style alternator onto my engine, but has it is still on a stand and have not started it I am not yet convinced that the belt will track correctly.

I have added a 6" X 8" electrical box full of relays to drive the (eventual) high output headlights and electric fan that I intend to install. This will be driven directly off of the alternator with its own large supply line. But with the cold weather and my unending 60-hour work week I just can't find the time to finish the project.

Well folks, I'm almost ready to throw in the towel on this. The headaches involved in getting the required connector and terminals look to make this more hassle than it's worth. I still haven't ruled it out totally yet, but I'm getting close to that point. For those of you who are interested, I'm still looking, but if it doesn't pan out, I'm sorry.

Well folks, I'm almost ready to throw in the towel on this. The headaches involved in getting the required connector and terminals look to make this more hassle than it's worth. I still haven't ruled it out totally yet, but I'm getting close to that point. For those of you who are interested, I'm still looking, but if it doesn't pan out, I'm sorry.

Hey Arne,

I guess that's why my Z guy that does 4 or 5 conversions a year was anxious to have you make them for $25.00. Thanks for the effort.