Virto Posted December 30, 2005 Share #13 Posted December 30, 2005 Not to hijack the thread, but are these rails good to replace the existing front frame rails? I know that my driver's side rail was ground down and patched by the PO. It's a "good enough" job but will not last forever.Are these a good option, or is it best to just have a shop remove all the bad metal and just fab some replacements? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted December 30, 2005 Share #14 Posted December 30, 2005 The major difference between our (Bad Dog Parts) rails and Charile's is that our's are 3 times the thickness. That said, Charlie's are a direct and near perfect OEM replacement. I in fact have his floor pans and his rails in my Z. As we were doing the restore work on my Z and after we welded in Charlie's floors and rails, I wanted them to be stronger and we came up with our first version. These are caps that can be easily welded over existing rails (once you have solved the rust issue). They weld onto the T/C rod box and extend the same lenght as the OEM did (behind the seats). I also wanted to jack my car up from one spot, hence our single point jack plates. You can jack your Z up using the new rails but we have no way of knowing what shape your floor pans are in, so we don't recommend it.We have added a rail cap for 280s that is custom cut to match the different undercarriage pattern of the 280s.And in a few weeks we will be selling a longer version of our 240 rails that will allow you to tie in the front and rear sections of your Z. Made for Zs with added HP & torque, this will be a 2-piece rail (to allow for differences between cars and to keep shipping costs down). We have improved the design so that the rails now will include a tab running on both sides of the "U" to make welding easier and the rail stronger.Will it solve all of the structural issues that need to be addressed for high HP Zs? Without a cage or front triangular brace, the answer is no. But it will do it's part of the job.Can you make your own, absolutely. Don't have the means or time, take a look at ours. We've sold over 3 dozen sets in the past 14 months and not one has ever been returned. And our return policy is pretty simple; all our parts, used or new, are 100% refundable. Our site: www.baddogparts.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virto Posted December 30, 2005 Share #15 Posted December 30, 2005 So get them fully repaired and then slap the rail caps on...cool.Thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted December 30, 2005 Share #16 Posted December 30, 2005 You can put our rails directly over your existing one (once you've taken care of the rust) or as a replacement if you are doing a floor pan project.If your rails have been crushed by jacking on them you will need to grind down the high spots first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted December 30, 2005 Share #17 Posted December 30, 2005 Gary,I have read up on Por 15 and feel like I will be able to use it properly. If I run into trouble I will PM you.The only bad thing of using the POR , or any other coating , then welding in the new rocker you will be burning off the POR and the new rocker will not be coated. I have a method of blowing in the por into the void after the rocker is welded in . Scanlon showed me this and I used it in every void in my Z to seal off the metal . This burning of the protectent coating is the reason I used stainless bolts to mount my battery support insted of welding it in . Thats another story . Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280z1975 Posted December 30, 2005 Author Share #18 Posted December 30, 2005 The only bad thing of using the POR , or any other coating , then welding in the new rocker you will be burning off the POR and the new rocker will not be coated. I have a method of blowing in the por into the void after the rocker is welded in . Scanlon showed me this and I used it in every void in my Z to seal off the metal . GaryThis problem has sorta crossed my mind. I don't want to go to all this trouble of eleminating rust, welding on some frame rail's then later on learnering I need to put those very same frame rails off to get to a rust problem. There are some high temperature paints out there, but none that I remeber can withstand the temperatures of welding (even on the backside of the weld where it's not as high of a temp but still really hot). Yeay, one more thing to worry about. :tapemouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riggzola Posted January 22, 2006 Share #19 Posted January 22, 2006 GNOSEZ, When will those new full length frame rails be ready? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted January 22, 2006 Share #20 Posted January 22, 2006 Phasma cutter issues delayed us and we will be shipping this week....prices later in the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted January 23, 2006 Share #21 Posted January 23, 2006 This is a pic of the baddog frame rails we put on during my R-230 diff. conv. They fit right over my exsisting rails (which had no rust) and were skip welded. They are a fine product... LARRY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak's Z Posted January 23, 2006 Share #22 Posted January 23, 2006 I put ZEDFINDINGS floors, rails, and supports in my '72. They are excellent, check my gallery for pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parman
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