Like the post title, has any one fitted Air Con to idealy their C210 but C110 info would help.

I'm after info like what parts you used and what did they come off etc, esp the heater unit inside of the car.

Thanks for any info people can provide.

I've not fitted it, but I have removed the engine bay components from my C110, and have removed the entire system from a parts car that I destroyed, wasn't the simplest thing to remove by any means, the location of the bolts etc. of the unit inside the car is a right pain in the arse.

I would offer you the one I took out of my parts car but I fear it would possibly not fit and/or the price from NZ to the UK would negate any benefit of getting it for free.

I do know of a HGC210 sedan rusting away but I'm unsure as to whether it has Aircon. I can't imagine the Aircon units differing greatly between the Skyline and say.. the Z cars, even the S130 280ZX may have usable parts.

Out of curiousity are you Will from datsunworld?

As far as I know, A/C units are pretty much car-specific for the ducts, switches and other interior parts. The other parts may be easy bolt-ons (compressor, dirier, condenser, etc.). Universal under dash units may work if you have space, but most likely won't look stock. Even in the case of my car, I have seen no less than 3 different factory installations. It's not impossible - I have seen a working unit that was put together from parts of 10-12 different cars and it looked like it came that way from the factory! If you can get a unit made for the car, it shouldn't be too difficult. Good luck!

I'm sure a C210 would have had Air-con as a factory option, so you should be able to find parts that will bolt straight up.

A friend of mine has a C210 2000GT turbo years ago, and i'm pretty sure it had air con. It had everything else, digital dash, power steering, electric mirrors and windows, efi.

Theres a C210 at a wreckers here in Perth. Read about it here:

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6875

Thanks for the info, yea only stuff im missing from the car is lecy wing mirrors, digital dash (think i shall pass on that idea) and Air Con.

Yea I think the hardest part is getting the bit that goes in the heater unit in the car.

I am a "Will" from Datsunworld but not the one your prob thinking off. Any one knows why that site aint working?

Just checked out the C210 vs C110 aircon in parts cars.

Miles is close - you MAY need the genuine C210 bits under the dash as the C110 looks to be physically incompatible.

That said, the aircon evaporator is an add-on tacked onto the heater system.

KHGC110 (240K GT) as a comparison has exactly the same heater as non aircon C110, evap is tacked on where the blower was and blower is now further toward sidewall. The heat control lever now trips a switch when on full cold to engage the compressor clutch (no extra aircon switch on the dash).

This seems to have been a popular solution with japanese manufacturers about that time.

Service Bulletin Vol 289 "Introduction of Datsun 180K and 240K GT (Model C210 Series)" dated November 1977 shows

1. the heater only version has a convoluted tube between the fan assembly and the heater case

2. the aircon evap goes in place of that convoluted tube

Interestingly, the C210 indash controls appear to be identical to C110 !!

Maybe later C110 aircon bits will fit and look the same ??

Art

oops - forgot this little snippit.

C210 (L24) has a cast steel bracket mounting the compressor.

R30 (L24E) has an almost identical appearance part in aluminium.

Looks like I just need to find this Aircon evap unit to replace the tube with.

Any idea on part numbers?

Will

If you really get desperate, the parts can be sourced from an Australian car and shipped.

Smart thing there would be to ship only what you can't source locally.

I suspect it would still get a bit expensive!

Have a look at what is available through the auto dimantlers (or whatever they are called you're way).

Several Japanese cars have taken a similar approach in recent years.

Another option is any heater/aircon (even truck) that has an inline aircon to heater type system, particularly if the case is fibreglass (glass reinforced plastic, or GRP).

Amazing what you can do with a cut and shut on sections out of that sort of system.

The trick there is to use thin cardboard to mock up the sections needed to get 'from here to there'.

DON'T try using plastic sheet without soaking a sample in acetone first (if acetone attacks or softens it then GRP resin will too).

Masking tape can be used to hold it together (don't get carried away with thick layers, use JUST enough to hang it together).

When satisfied punch lots of holes about 6mm in dianeter through the cardboard (actually you CAN do that first, it's just a bit harder to work with).

Fibreglass and styrene resin can then be applied over the cardboard, inside and out.

Once set, cut away any untidy bits, add more GRP until you have a case sturdy enough to do the job.

If it doesn't fit spot-on, no worries - just grind on it as needed and reapply GRP to get exactly what you need.

Same thing to 'pretty up' the shape.

Lay on a thin skin of body filler on any areas visible after installation and sand to smooth things out.

Spray on s coat of rattlecan satin black paint (preferably urethane or epoxy) to make it all look the same.

Presto, one 'factory look' ducting/casing system that very few people would realise wasn't standard.

If you are careful you can do a similar job on a plastic case - just use a heated old butter knife to weld and smooth the plastic.

Experiment on scrap to find how hot the knife needs to be - usually not very hot!

Scraps cut from the case will provide filler material for welding.

Not as easy to get a 'factory look' but it CAN be done.

Often this method will still need aluminium straps to be added to carry the weight.

If that is a route you take, just make sure you do it outdoors with a gentle breeze to sweep fumes away. Some of the plastics used in cars are pretty toxic when heated or burning (as a fireman I have good reason to be careful).

How did I learn those tricks? Converting Chev Corvettes to right hand drive - and they are a piece of s*** to do anything with.

Of course, if you are REALLY good with sheetmetal work you can do what one slightly crazy friend has done for his '69 Mustang - build it entirely out of thin alumium sheet, all hammer formed and TIG welded together. It's the ONLY heater/aircon I've ever seen with a polished aluminium case!!!

Wow, Art the ideas man! You sound like a very interesting characte, where are you located? (feel free to send a PM if you feel the thread may be skewed off-topic)

does it matter what compressor/drier etc. that you use??

My C110 apparently has the internal A/C bits (not sure what it was out of), but because i am running the RB25, i would prefer to use all the RB25 bits on the engine and bay etc.

will this work with the evaporator in the box? or could they be incompatible?

i wasn't going to bother with A/C, but i have been TOLD by my significant other that leaving it out is not an option

Doesn't matter as long as you mount them and route your lines/hoses properly. I've experimented with both the Nissan (Hitachi MJ167) and the Sanden SD508 in my Z. I've also used the factory receiver/drier and an aftermarket one. Both work about the same but the Sanden is easier to work on, find parts for and costs less.

As Stephen says, doesn't matter too much.

Use the largest condenser you can fit in front of the radiator and leave at least 25mm gap between them.

The usual problem with all modified systems I've seen tends to be not enough cooling through the condenser, particularly when switching to later 'green' refrigerants.

Funny how some ideas change when The Boss puts her foot down isn't it!