Mustache bar mounting on 11/70 Z

[ezzzzzzz]

I have relocated the diff using a 260Z mustache bar. My original setup only had one rubber mount stopper, upper and lower, on each end. These stoppers are basically solid rubber. The VB catalog shows double stoppers, upper and lower. Their upper stoppers are wavy (poor description) in the catalog, page 91. I have two of these in a spares box at home but it appears I need two more??? I noticed that the drain plug is blocked by the crossmember. If these extra spacers were in place that plug would be accessible. The only issue then would be if the mounting bolt is long enough the accomodate the extra spacers. Can somebody clear this up for me? Can someone provide pictures of these pieces installed on a Z later than mine??

[Jackhammer]

I am not sure if these will help. This is an early 260 Z

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/2/medium/PDR_1458.JPG

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/PDR_1484.JPG

[ezzzzzzz]

That looks remarkably like my present setup. The BIG problem with mine is the relocated R180 differential now contacts the lower crossmember. I'm replacing it with a later model curved crossmember. I haven't heard of others having that problem with moving the diff back unless it is a R200 swap.

[jjones-lg]

If you have an early car and move the diff back so the axles are straight then you need the curved cross brace. Doesn't matter if you have 180 or 200.

jj

[ezzzzzzz]

I picked one up on eBay for $17 and another $15 to ship. It included the uprights, all nice and sandblasted. I gave the crossmember another blasting and rinse. Shot it with Hammerite last night. It's ready to go on this weekend if time allows. I'm in SE Va a few miles from East Coast Z Center and tried to get one from Barry(?). He wanted $150! I laughed and said I could pick it up for way less. He offered it at $50 and would pull it for me. Needless to say, he lost that sell. I'd heard he was ridiculous with his pricing and now I know firsthand.

[ezzzzzzz]

Arne asked about a parts list for this mod so I'm giving a synopsis....

You'll need the 260Z R180 mustache bar, 260Z driveshaft, and 260Z curved rear crossmember. 280Z pieces may also work but I'm only addressing the parts I used. The front diff mount can be turned around. The straight rear crossmember is replaced with the curved piece. The older driveshaft can be lengthened 1" or replaced with the 260Z unit. If you replace the driveshaft make sure you get one with replaceable u-joints (caps held in place with cir-clips, NOT staked). You can replace every bushing you feel like during this mod. I rebuilt the whole rearend suspension. Other than the crossmember, I also had to lengthen my old driveshaft instead of using the newly rebuilt and powder coated 260Z driveshaft. I run an early Type A 5 speed which uses an output yoke. The 260Z driveshaft wouldn't work in my case much to my dismay. If your driveshaft has a slip yoke at the front then you'll have no problem. Lastly. the restraint strap over the front of the diff will not fit properly. You can force it back some to use it, extend the strap brackets backwards to relocate the strap between the diff bolt holes (look and you'll see what I mean), or use a different restraining setup which I'm choosing to do. That should just about cover it.

[7T1240]

I am not sure if these will help. This is an early 260 Z

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/2/medium/PDR_1458.JPG

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/PDR_1484.JPG

Jack, hello.

Are those photos of your 260Z? If so, are there more photographs (and written descriptions ) of the restoration process you are taking your car through?

Thanks, Gary S.

[SteveInOakland]

I have relocated the diff using a 260Z mustache bar. My original setup only had one rubber mount stopper, upper and lower, on each end. These stoppers are basically solid rubber. The VB catalog shows double stoppers, upper and lower. Their upper stoppers are wavy (poor description) in the catalog, page 91. I have two of these in a spares box at home but it appears I need two more???

Are you talking about the "serrated washers" where wavy rubber is affixed to the big washers that adjoin the moustache bar bushings?

If so, there are 4, but there would be none with the kind of bushings shown in Jackhammer's photos -- just straight washers. Ditto with MSA's urethane moustache-bar bushings.

The serrated washers were used with m-b bushings that did not extend above and below the sleeves at the ends of the m-b. They served the same purpose as the additional rubber of the kind of bushings Jackhammer shows.

--Of course, this may not be what you were asking about at all.

Steve.

[ezzzzzzz]

That clears things up for me. My replacement MB bushings were the type that did extend beyond the by a small measure. Removing and reinstalling these bushings were a real pain especially mushrooming the sleeve over the bar end.

[SteveInOakland]

That clears things up for me. My replacement MB bushings were the type that did extend beyond the by a small measure. Removing and reinstalling these bushings were a real pain especially mushrooming the sleeve over the bar end.

Yeah. MSA suggested burning the old ones out with a torch -- this for the type that don't extend past the sleeve. I used combination of drilling and propane torch, but propane really wasn't hot enough, and what a stink. Might try drill and Sawzall or similar next time.

In an isolated area, a guy could probably leave one end of the bar in an open fire for 30 minutes or so and then pound out what was left. Spending that 30 minutes as far away as possible.

FYI, the Prothane MB bushings sold by MSA come in two halves, one going in from above and one from below, and are a snap to install. With an MB bushing I don't think there'd be any advantage at all to rubber over urethane...

Steve.

[Zs-ondabrain]

and to that, I'd like to add this picture, which is the same way Mine is set up, which I also figured out is WRONG......

Problem is that my driveline is significantly out of the tranny and leaks gear oil onto my exhaust pipe. I put the front R-200 diff mount in backwards and this caused the driveline problem.

Now I need to turn the Mustache bar around, turn the diff mount around, and we're talking time well spent.

[Marty Rogan]

Are the curved cross braces from a later 240Z the same as the cross braces for an R200 Diff?

TIA,

Marty