Trudge Posted January 31, 2006 Share #13 Posted January 31, 2006 I used a product from SEM called Rust Mortar. It does a real good job neutralizing rust and it puts an some kind of oxide finish on bare metal to avoid flash rust. Then I use the POR-15 3 step process to clean and then seal the rust and bare metal. To get to the rust inside the cross members I used a spray bottle with a red tube like the the one on a can of WD-40 and sprayed the RustMortar into the seat crossmember through any hole I could find. You could even drill small 1/8" holes if you like but you will be creating more bare metal if you do. Then I shot compressed air into the same holes hoping that all that air turbulance would help to distribute the RustMortar.After 24 hours I mixed up a 50/50 mixture of POR-15 and thinner and shot that mixture into the crossmember holes and then used the compressed air to blow it around inside the crossmember.Maybe this will give you some ideas. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenz240z Posted January 31, 2006 Share #14 Posted January 31, 2006 Hi Gregg, instead of cutting an access hole, you could probably accomplish what you want to achieve by using the hole that is there on the top of the mounting bracket. You might try making a dauber out of a bit of wire or a coat hanger and a small swatch of cotton. It should fit through that hole, and you could swab out the inside pretty well. There will be some areas you can't reach, but I'd think you could get to the backside of the seam along the floorboard. You should be able to bend the dauber to get to most of the inside of the bracket.This approach could be used to apply the Rust Mort, or similar rust inhibitor, and also for the POR-15. In fact, I think I've seen something on their website about daubers you can purchase to do this very thing. It was either that, or in the latest Eastwood catalog.If you decide to go ahead and cut an access hole, you might consider using a hole saw. Get a round metal plug of the proper size from the hardware store to plug it up, put a little strip caulk around the edge, it will help seal it and prevent the edge of the hole from rusting. Or, use a rubber hole plug. I doubt cutting a small hole would compromise the structural integrity of the mount by much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280z1975 Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share #15 Posted January 31, 2006 Hey guys, well I already cut and did the repairs I wanted to do on the reat seat mounts. See the photos below for the progress. I used a dremel (went through three cutting wheels) one each. Then used wire brushes and the dremels small wire brush where I could, then a couple of rounds of metal ready and finally an arse load of Por-15 to seal it all. I am happy with the result. Now onto the underbody and wheel wells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenz240z Posted January 31, 2006 Share #16 Posted January 31, 2006 Wow, from the looks of things, the floor pans will never rust out from the inside! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280z1975 Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share #17 Posted January 31, 2006 Wow, from the looks of things, the floor pans will never rust out from the inside!I am doing the same to the underbody when I get back from my trip. Two good coats of Por-15 topped with some Herculiner bed liner for extra protection. Since I am moving up to the great white north I want to make sure something I put this much time into will last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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