'73 240Z $500 - advice !!!

[Pete84]

I was driving to school today and saw a red 240Z for sale on a parcel off to the side of the road. Once I got out of class I went back and took a closer look. The body is in quite good condition, the paint is not of the hightest quality, but the exterior is otherwise in good condition for its age.

Phoned the guy who was selling it, and got a good deal of information from him about the car.

-1973

-"Superficial" rust, needs some work, but has not rusted through the floorpans etc.

-No engine or transmission

-Springs taken out, in the back of the car. Original springs, so even if they were installed I would be getting new ones.

-Original rims in the back, but with some attractive aftermaket rims available.

-No interior seats, dash has some pretty bad cracks accross it.

The owner has already gotten an offer of $350, and so I could probably get it for $400.

How much might I expect to pay for the I6 engine, Carb, and transmission? I could pick and pull seats until I have money for better ones, but I don't know what the local yard exactly.

How should I look for rust? Climb under the car with a flashlight and look everywhere I can? Pull up the carpet / flooring and see what it looks like? How bad is bad and what can be fixed? Lots of questions, but I don't really want to go to a big effort for nothing.

BTW my current car is a '85 Prelude Si with an auto 4 speed.

Any comments and information are greatly appreciated, am going to start hunting for parts. Pretty urgent as I would need to raise the full amount.

Thanks !!

[gnosez]

It would help greatly if you could post some pics of the following areas:

1) rockers

2) doors

3) inner rear wheel well (facing towards the front of the car)

4) fenders

5) battery box area

6) hatch

7) hatch deck (with hatch open)

8) frame rails (under car from radiator to under seats)

9) floor pans (from under if car has carpets, lift carpets if possible)

Without an engine, you can do anything you want with the car as long as the body is in good enough shape you aren't spending all your money on it instead of go fast parts, etc.

[ncz]

Pete, welcome to the site. John hit all the high spots(or should we say low spots). Where are you and where has the Z lived its life. Even if it has been in the dry states, you will still have rust. The western cars seem to have less than most. The parts you need to complete the project are plentiful and most can be had from members here. They may need rehab but thats the fun part. As mentioned before, rust is not your friend so climb under that thing and take some pic's

[Pete84]

Thanks for the responses, I have seen some pretty nasty rust on cars up in Oregon so I was pretty aprehensive when I saw the price - it is rare that it is too good to believe

I had my "good" clothing on, so I didn't climb under the body. There wasn't any bubbling or the like that I noticed on the paint. I am going to stop by and crawl under it tomorrow, have to take some clothing so that I am not covered in mud at work, but I'll see what all I can get at.

Dollar wise, how much might I be looking at?

EDIT

Since I'll be putting a whole engine / transmision set in, what all could be put in? Fuel injection, as I remember that the 280Z had that[??], 5 speed manual . . . what will work?

[kenz240z]

Hi Pete, welcome to the club. Check out this site for info and pictures on where to look for rust:

http://www.geocities.com/gramage2000/the_rust_file.htm

There are lots of engine/transmission choices, L24, L28, fuel injection, turbo charger, small block Chevy, small block Ford, etc... For V8 engine swap info you might check hybridz.com.

One thing to consider is the space required for working on the car. As long as you've got a garage space available, you should be set.

Keep us posted if you get the car!

[Pete84]

Thanks for the link to the rust site, I am going to try and set up a time to take a look at the interior of the car and under the hood for rust etc, as it is locked. Will crawl under and see what can be seen, try and get a camera to take some shots.

BUT

Any price estimates for an engine, clutch, and transmission? I could hit the local pick and pull and get to rebuild it all, but if there is a price "estimate" for what reburbished parts will run or even how much it would cost to rebuild an engine on my own I would be _extremely_ thankful. I want this to be a great deal of fun and learning, not a massive budget burden.

BTW I am living in Northern California, just outside of Redding. ~2-2.5 hours north of Sacramento.

EDIT

I would like to stick to a I6 like there was in the 240/260/280Z just to keep the "flavor" of the car close to what it is, but if a small block V8 etc is cheaper and doesn't ruin the car I would be very much into that. Fuel injection would a big plus if it isn't A) cost inflation to a level so much greater the n/a that it wouldn't be a very good economic-to-perfomance choice and something that I could install myself with a helping hand from my brother.

Thanks so much for the advice!!

[Arne]

Injection from a later Z can be installed, my car had it on it when I bought it. But doing it right requires more headaches than I was willing to put up with. I went back to the factory carbs. Check out the link to my car's diary in my sig for details.

[montoya_fan01]

by the time you find an L6 & rebuild it, find/rebuild carbs, find a trans, seats, springs & strut carts, etc for the suspension....expect to spend close to $3K. Then you can add in whatever it costs to fix any rust issues.

IMO it sounds more like a parts car than a project car unless you have tons of time, and understand that you'll spend thousands of dollars on it before you can enjoy driving it.

The better the condition of the car you start with, the less money and time you'll spend trying to make it into something you can be proud of.

My old auto shop teacher had a saying that may apply here. "Why polish a turd?"

[Pete84]

by the time you find an L6 & rebuild it, find/rebuild carbs, find a trans, seats, springs & strut carts, etc for the suspension....expect to spend close to $3K. Then you can add in whatever it costs to fix any rust issues.

IMO it sounds more like a parts car than a project car unless you have tons of time, and understand that you'll spend thousands of dollars on it before you can enjoy driving it.

The better the condition of the car you start with, the less money and time you'll spend trying to make it into something you can be proud of.

My old auto shop teacher had a saying that may apply here. "Why polish a turd?"

The reason why I am reasonably excited about it is because it is a "turd" with apparently good condition body panels and is claimed to have minor rust. Major pain avoided in my book. Plus, it has a a good set of rims, another expense avoided. Most of the items you listed I would have had to replace anyhow to get the level of quality that I am wanting to get from this project, so if my under-the-car inspection is negative on rust it should be a good way for me to spend my free time on what ever day I'm not working.

[montoya_fan01]

hey bro, knock yourself out. bring a screwdriver with you when you inspect the body and poke at the metal (HARD) and you'll soon know if there is major rust issues in the areas mentioned by others. If you only use your eyes, you'll miss lots cancer thats hidden. These cars rust from the inside as much as they do from the outside.

[beandip]

Pete , sorry but I agree with montoya on this only I think the 3K is a vary low estimate , for what you have asked about having to buy . There is too much missing from the car. If you had a donor car that had a good engine and running gear that you could just swap in this would be different . You are looking at some big bucks to save this car and from what you have posted I don't think you have the funds . I would estimate $5000.00 is a more accurate number . I just am finishing on a project car and I am into it for more than this and I had a running and drive able car to start with . I recommend if you really want a Z to save some money and find the most complete and rust free car you can find and go from there. You will be WAY ahead. Parts are getting spendy for these cars now . This is why so many of our members buy parts cars . They are not often found in bone yard like a few year ago. This car is likely a donor car the seller has removed what he needed and is selling the shell . Sorry to be a bearer of bad news but I wanted to be streight with you. If you do buy this car I will help as much as I can . Gary

[montoya_fan01]

Your figures and advice are good Gary, I wasn't even factoring in Paint and bodywork other than patching minimal rust. He could easily be into it for $5K before he's turned it into a nice car.

Pete, this car will keep you busy (and broke) for a whole lot of days when you're "not working".