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Spindle Pin woes


zack_280

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I'm having trouble removing my spindle pins (big surprise). I have tried everything I can think of and had no luck. First I bought a puller from one of the members here. I soaked the pin area in PB every day for a few days. Then I applied the puller and a fair amount of pressure with no luck, so I heated the pin area and applied a little more pressure with the puller and hit the other end lightly with a hammer. So I applied a little more pressure with the puller and it stripped the nut and didn't budge the pin.

Next I went to the machine shop and asked them to press it out. They have a 25ton press and I felt like this would do it. Well, they said they couldn't because it bent the bolt they were using to press it out with. (I still have to go pick it up).

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me? There is no chance of using a puller now. I called the junk yard and they are asking $250 total for both of the control arm/strut housing assys.

As far as I can tell I have 3 options...Try to have it drilled out ($100), take it to a different shop with a bigger press (this will probably be cheapest and is definitely the preferred method, but I don't know of any other shop with a press that will do it for me), or buy the parts ($250).

Thanks again guys. I'm not sure there's much you can do, but thanks anyways.

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I had a stubborn spindle pin that didn't want to budge. I took it to a local machine shop, but the fellow there said his press wouldn't be able to push the pin out. He suggested taking it to an alignment shop. So, I then took it to a local alignment shop and they managed to get it out. Apparently it took a combination of heat from a torch and the press to get it out.

$250 seems a bit high for a transverse link/strut assembly. Are there any U-Pull it type of salvage yards near you? Might be worth a look. How about any of the Z shops that carry used parts?

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You have a bushing that is "metal surrounding rubber, with another metal sleeve around the spindle pin. Take an Oxy/Gas torch and melt the "rubber" on both ends... then when the rubber is running out liquid... press the pin out. Afterward, you'll have to cut the remaining metal sleeve and chisel it out... Focus the heat from the torch on the rubber on one then the other ends.

Good luck..

Carl B.

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Cut the pin between the control arm and housing. The bushing can be removed using Carl's technique. The pin remnents can be pressed out of the housing but a VERY short grade 8 bolt (1/2" shank below head) must be used to start. Progressively longer bolts are then used to press the pin out. Longer bolts will bend under the high initial loads.

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Thanks for the info guys. I just typed a longer message and then accidently hit refresh or back. Long story short. The machine shop got one out yesterday and the other wouldn't budge. They are going to drill it out today. I have now spent a total of about $200 on these spindle pins. Pretty ridiculous.

I hope I can "shave a couple of tenths off of my 1/4 mile time" as mentioned in the Ztherapy vid. Too bad I don't know what my 1/4 time was before the install. (or maybe that's good because now I can convince myself that it was worth it without having physical evidence to prove otherwise.)

I mentioned the "use progresively longer bolt method", but they said it wouldn't work.

Later.

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  • 7 years later...

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