Hey.....this will be short and sweet. What I need to know is which headbolts are the longest. I will be running back by the junkyard Monday, and I need some headbolts for my engine stand. I have attached a picture below, with the bolts I am guessing are the longest, since they pass thru the cam towers. Click on the pic if you will and let me know if I have made the right assumption. Sorry for the lame question, but this will save me a bit of time.

Yes, those are the longer bolts. Do you already have the proper (10mm?) hex key? You may need a long breaker bar as well.

Thought I would take this thread to mention my experience with re-building my engine L24-2338. This is an early engine - E31 head - the one that comes with the reinforcing plate on the oil pan because the crankshaft harmonics are out of whack. Later crankshafts have an added counterweight to rectify the problem, but the early engines are peculiar in that they have three head bolt lengths. I didn't notice the different lengths when I took the engine apart, but when I put it back together, I was forced to refer to the engine manual, page EM-30 which states; "Three different types of bolts are used. (So be careful when installing)". Everyone had been telling me to assemble the engine with new "turbo style" head bolts (I didn't want to do that) and after some research I was able to order new bolts in the various lengths from Datsun. I measured the block to determine which long bolts to use in which location. New turbo bolts would have bottomed out.

Another one of those peculiar things about the early cars.

Chris

MikeW, got the correct hex/socket I need ready to go. Thanks. Gonna carry a breaker bar with me and see how it goes.

26th-Z, thanks also for your info. I found out a week or so ago about the 3 different sizes. Dropped by the local Nissan dealership with thoughts of possibly ordering some. The guy gave me 3 part numbers, and a price sheet showing me how proud they were of them. He said he was not sure if he could get them or not. No bother.....the local junkyard has all I need. As mentioned earlier, I will be using them for the engine stand, so I just wanted to make sure I got the longer ones. Was not sure how much of a booger these would be to break loose, so now I know exactly which ones to shoot for without wasting time (lunch break).

Thanks again for all the good info.

Why would you want to use Z head bolts for an engine stand? Why not just go to your local hardware store and leave the Z bolts for someone who might need them? Am I missing something?

Why would you want to use Z head bolts for an engine stand? Why not just go to your local hardware store and leave the Z bolts for someone who might need them? Am I missing something?

Need them for what? He just wants to use them on a stand. If they're in the junkyard that's really about all they are good for anyway. Or would you use used headbolts on your engine? I wouldn't.

Dunno, that's why I asked. I would re-use the bolts I have in my engine now, and they're "used".

I always use new head bolts. After breaking a used one on my 510 years ago that wasn't even at full torque yet. They stretch each time you torque them and that's why I, as well as many others, suggest new ones especially if you don't know the history of the old ones.

Reading back thru all the threads, I found many suggestions to use headbolts when mounting the engine to the stand. They are the correct size and pitch to do the job. The only (retail) place I have found around here was an actual Nissan dealership who wanted $6.90 each for the bolts. NAPA said theirs were not strong enough (hardened). Carquest, Advance, and Autozone looked at me like I was crazy....which I am....so I took offense. The junkyard is totally appropriate in my opinion for this purchase. Besides, its an engine thats been pretty raided already....valve cover, distributer, intake, carbs, etc. all gone. First come first served bud. Those bolts have my name written all over em. I am picking up the oiler tube, and four headbolts for $5.......nuff said.

Thanks JK. That's great info to have. I'll keep that in mind when it comes time to mount up my build-up motor to the stand.

another thing to consider is that most hardware stores do not carry hardened metric bolts (10.9 or higher).

Use "standard" metric bolts to mount an engine to a stand and you're likely to find the engine on the floor (or on your foot) someday.

No problem Enigma. Will let you know how it turns out....and if the engine ends up on the floor.:nervous:

Just a quick update. Made the trip to the junkyard today and picked up the bolts I needed. The bolts circled on the picture at the beginning of this post are actually longer than I expected. The bolts on the opposite side of the cam, though shorter, will still require several washers to shorten them up enough to use. They should work fine after shimming. Just thought I would give a heads up to anyone that may need this info in the future. Also, a 10mm socket/hex, extension, and 1/2" breaker bar would be the preferred method of removal. The bolts almost made my 3/8" Craftsman rachet blow a nad, but it thankfully held together. Thanks again everyone.