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What is the most common cause...


Mat M

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Yup. Kind of a bitch to get to, I can't remember if you have to take the stalks off the column or not. I think you can do it with everything still on the column.

If not the bolts that attach the stalks to the column are breakaway bolts. Hit a certain torque and the head busts off. So if you need to remove them you can use a hammer and chisel or a dremel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt then remove with a flat screwdriver. Don't think you'll need to do that though.

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Remove the clamshell surrounding your steering column and the Ignition/Steering Lock. If you CAN remove the lock assembly from the steering column, it makes it a dash easier to remove the Ignition Switch from the back of the Steering Lock. Once you can see it, just remove the connector going to it, and unscrew it from the lock.

By the way, the ignition key does NOT go all the way through the lock, there IS a tab sticking out of the back of the ignition lock that engages the ignition switch.

Enrique

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Shows you how long it's been...

Mat you could just plug another one into the harness and twist it with a screwdriver. Tanya B started her car that way for years.

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA

ROFL ROFL ROFL

I work in Citrus Heights, one of the uh, less fortunate areas of the suburbs of Sacramento, between (from what I can see from the parking lot) 4 apartment complexes. I don't want to make it any easier for some meth head to steal it.

Thanks for the info guys, I would literally be lost without all your help!

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...And the heavens opened, and the angels sang. And He saw that it was good.

All is done!

THANKS TO ALL, this morning I was able to swap out the ignition switch so the car starts more reliably; and I was able to rewire the coil wires so that the tach actually works!!!!

That helped me to see that I am idling about 600 rpm (I don't have a timing light yet, I just adjusted by ear).

Now, if I could only find someone who would be willing to sell (or trade) me an adapter for a 81ZX alternator for my 240... ;o)

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Congratulations! I remember how stoked I was when I got my car re-wired to start correctly and get the tach to work as well. Glad we were all able to help.

What adapter do you need for the distributor? Are you using the dizzy from an '81 that has the 3 wire module (E12-93)?

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Arne, he's using the E12-80 (from post #4).

Here's a link to the straw poll that Arne did in trying to drum up interest on the ZX Alternator plug. Note that the purpose of that plug was to eliminate the stock Voltage Regulator from the circuit. Since the INTERNAL regulator of the ZX Alternator made the original V/R not only redundant, but actually problematic, it was a great idea.

Unfortunately, apparently obtaining the connectors proved impossible.

Contact Arne for further info / help on that.

Enrique

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Yes, I am using the e12-80 module. I do have a couple of e12-92s available if anyone is interested.

What, specifically, were the connectors for which you were looking? Do you have schematics as to which circuit goes where? I guess I should take a look at the ZXs I have to see what the idea was about.

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Oh! I mis-read it, thought you were looking for something for the distributor, not the alternator.

You don't need the adapter that I came up with, it can be done with normal wires and crimp connectors. But you also have to solder a diode into the circuit. Search the forum for diode and you'll find lots of (sometimes contradictory) posts.

The adapter that I came up with is designed to simply plug into the main harness in place of the external voltage regulator. It has the required jumper wires and diode all self-contained. I have now found suppliers for the factory-style terminals and connectors, but now that I am hip-deep in replacing the wiring in my car, I don't have the time to build them. (Maybe later this summer, after I get my car sorted.) For now, I have only built one - and it's on my car.

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