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Power Windows in a 70' 240Z ? !


Zs-ondabrain

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I mean the handle.

Do you re-skin the door so it hides where it was?

The kit comes with cups that cover and hide the assembly. you can see them in the picture below on the middle right. There are three sizes for different lenght shafts. unfortunately you have to widen the hole to fit the new cups. They are black and blend in real nice.

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Finished all the wiring and install last night. Thankfully, I had already drilled the two holes for the wires when I put in speakers, actuators, and the L.E.D. for my alarm.

It works great!!! easy up and down, nice and quiet, and no more reaching for the window handle.

I even replaced the old door lock actuators with some new "slim line" Compact actuators.

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you should of had the toggle switches right next to eachother like they do on bmw's, just so you wouldn't have to reach on the other side of the center console to open/close. but still nice install.

I thought about that and heres the problem....

1) The only place in the middle of the center console was where my choke is or where my rear defrost switch is. I like my rear window heater and need my choke so those were out of the question.

2) The other "center" area has metel directly underneath it (trans hump) and I was not about to cut that or have the wires to the switch going out side the car.

3) Everything in front of the shift boot has a purpose and I was'nt going to cut a perfect ashtray or fuse block cover for the sake of 2 small switches.

4) I wanted to be able to reach her side with ease and have her be able to reach my side as well. (mission succesful) My center console has a break on the passenger side from the P.O. the switches are deep and I have to hide the wires from the plugs that plug into the switches, and ALSO have a flat surface to mount the switch holders. The ONLY possible place to put the switches and not destroy the integrity of the car was on the sides of the center console.

They actually blend in very nice (they have the same texture as the console)

But thanks for the compliment and your input,:classic:

Dave.

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  • 2 years later...

It's been a while since I added to this thread so I thought I'd Bump it up to let the readers know that everything still works great. Never blown a fuse, no issues with the wiring between the body and doors, still nice and quiet and strong.

I've been asked 3 times this month about "Power windows" so I figured an update was in order and this bring it closer to the front page when people search for info on the subject.

Dave.

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It's been a while since I added to this thread so I thought I'd Bump it up to let the readers know that everything still works great. Never blown a fuse, no issues with the wiring between the body and doors, still nice and quiet and strong.

I've been asked 3 times this month about "Power windows" so I figured an update was in order and this bring it closer to the front page when people search for info on the subject.

Dave.

awesome info.... a definite must...

*subscribed*

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Dave:

Now that you've established (1) how easy this kit was to install and (2) that it remains functional after an extended use period, it is time for you to "cut and paste" a stand-alone Technical Article about the modfication on this Web site - one that will not have all the extraneous comments and would simply be the documentation of all your efforts. I know that this is something I definitely want to do on my '72 during its rebuild, so your trailblazing is of great value to me.

I'd also like to see a similar Technical Aricle about your power door locks. I'm not "sold" on doing this mod yet, but others might be after they see what all was involved.

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