Wow, in my street Z 15+ years ago I installed power windows, power door locks, LED's on the doors for the alarm and a moderately modified door panel with two midranges and one tweeter.

The biggest challenge was getting the wires through the body of the car and into the door without interfering with the regular mechanisms (I had to take both doors off). I built out a small panel that covered the center section of the door to hide the window mechanism and found room at the bottom of the door to install the motor.

This system with all these mods worked well until I sold the car 8 years ago.

I installed the switches for the windows on the center console behind the controls for the choke and made a small panel that raised that section of the center of the dash so that the switches would not ground out against the body of the car.

The door locks were easy, the windows were a little more involved but worked well.

Ron

I put a set of mini arm rests in my 280Z 2+2 the week I bought it in 1982, they were JC whitney power window lifts, I had a buddy at gulfstream Aerospace make me some switch aluminum switch pods that mounted under the side console screws so I didn't have to cut the console. the motors weren't as quiet as I wanted, but they did the job on the 2+2 windows so well for the 12 years I had the car, I took them out and kept them when I sold the car...I'll have to pull them out and take a picture-the switch pods were/are too trick!

Will

Will

Just a quick update on an old thread. It's now Feb of 2013 and the same kit I installed all those years ago, still works perfect. Not a single issue, no binding, tracks are still greased and slide easy, no more quieter or noisy then 5 years ago and it's still a daily driver.

Dave

Hi Dave,

Nice to see your "smiling face" on here once again...missed ya'. BTW my power windows work just fine, also. Thanks for the motivation to get 'er done.

Cheers, Mike

I should probably order up one of those kits before they disappear since I plan to do this to my Z too. If I got one through you would I save anything over getting it direct Dave?

Greg

Thanks Mike. I'm always here, just hiding in the shadows.....

Greg, after shipping and all that, probably cheaper to buy direct. You'll want the SPAL Deluxe Kit (stronger and quieter) and you'll want the 2 switch kit and mount them in the center console of in that area. the 3 switch kit allows you to put the L and R door switches on your door and the 3rd switch goes on the pasenger side. but that's more wiring and cutting into your door panel. I'd go with the 2 switch kit.

Hi, I´m looking into installing power windows and door locks on my 1973 240Z. I was just wondering what´s the best way to route the wires from the door and into the chassis? Also how to keep the wires safe from water and grinding against the chassis?

I use a small drill inside the door with a 3/8" bit or even a step bit up to 3/8" Then I use a 3/8" grommet. On the body side, I like to drill the 3/8" hole through the hole in the kick panel that the hinge bolts are in. And as close to being across from the hole you drill in the door. If you need to, drill through the sheet metal into the pocket then to the outer sheet metal. It's hard to describe without pictures.

And as many times as I've done this to an S30, you'd think I'd have a bunch of pictures by now.

Dave