Headlight Upgrade Harness's For Sale (again!)

[Zs-ondabrain]

Ya, I almost fell asleep writing that, last night.

And to add to todays "gotta do" list, My S.U.'s have gone to the crapper and need to be swapped today. It won't idle for sh1t and it's a b_tch to start in the mornings, or any time that it's not warm.

Luckily I still have that triple S.U. set up form late last year.

Guess it's tear apart time,

Dave.

[MikeW]

It won't idle for sh1t and it's a b_tch to start in the mornings, or any time that it's not warm.

Are you sure it's not just a choke cable adjustment problem?

[Zs-ondabrain]

They've never been cleaned or rebuilt (in 35 years). Choke cable is for from being the problem, But thanks for the advice.

Dave

[dogma420]

wasn't in the loop back year on the 3 su setup, have you tried that yet,

Dave?

[Zs-ondabrain]

Kinda boggy under full throttle but fired up great, idled great and damn hard to tune.

You want to but the intake manifold? It comes with the extra goodies to make the linkage work. Any takers?

Dave.

P.S. Aren't we a little off subject? Does everybody have a harness yet?

[Zs-ondabrain]

I'll have parts in by wed or thursday for those of you who are waiting for a good time to order your harness'(s)

Don't forget that I am also offering the foglight attachment for an extra $25.

It's integrated into the headlight harness so you only see an additional relay and two wires for the foglights and 1 little input wire that goes to stock fog light wire near the healight plug.

Use the links below to email me or find more info,

Dave.

[Dtsnlvrs]

Dave,

Sent you an e-mail today requesting a total for both harnesses. BTW a good way to get the power from the battery is to put another ring connector and wire on the starter post and run it into the cockpit. Then install a PDB (power distribution block). I Already have one installed to power my MSD, Stereo, iPod Adapter, and soon, your relay kits.

[dogma420]

I agree with Dtsnlvrs....

Having 2 attachments to the positive terminal, AND wanting to have my new stereo cd player head unit connected directly to the battery would have me jamming 3 extra wires!

So I went to a stereo shop (got my stereo at Walmart, I'm a cheap arse--but it is a nice 50w x 4 mosfet mp3 compatible Pioneer head I paid only $130!!!) and the stereo shop sold me a 1 into 3 gold plated attachment...all have a screw that you tighten to secure each wire into the block, it looks great. Waterproof with a plastic shielding cover. They were quite helpful, and said that this block is normally placed inside the cabin and used for amplifiers only. They said it would have no problems with the configuration I wanted--just that I need to use 4 gauge wiring instead of their normal 8 gauge they use for the live feed for amplifiers. The hole that the live cable goes into fits a 4 gauge wire perfectly as well.

The live wire feed is big enough for 4 guage wire, so I bought a 2 foot length of wire so I'll only have 1 extra 4 guage wire. So what I'm going to do is mount this little contraption next to the battery on the firewall where there is a nice little space with enough room for wires on both sides...

4 gauge wire goes into block on battery side; on the other side, I have a live feed for the stereo head (still have presets, etc. hooked up to cigarette lighter)...the other 2 holes are used for Dave's headlight relay and the parking light relay.

I'll post pictures as soon as I have it assembled.

PS. I just ordered a brand new 92 Honda Civic blower fan, from www.drivewire.com, an online auto parts supplier.

Direct Link:

http://www.drivewire.com/hondaparts/catalog/hondacivicheaterblowermotor.html

The total cost with free shipping was $85. I thought this was a good deal, considering that this is a major everyday item that I use quite frequently with Oregon's chilly wet winter weather. Can't wait to see the difference!!! (apologies right now if you didn't want me to change subjects...I thought with the electrical improvements being the major subject of this thread everyone would be interested.)

Everyone have a good week,

[Zs-ondabrain]

I totaly agree with ya'll. I have a "Pheonix Gold 100 amp Circuit Breaker" located on the support bracket, near the battery. I have a few things attached to the input side of it and a few more to the output side of the breaker.

I can break the circuit at any time in order to work on the car without having to disconnect the battery.

Just hit the little red button and the swing arm opens. slide it back into place to reset it. They cost about 10-40 dollars all depends on the brand and amperage.

[dogma420]

David,

Check out the pictures of the block I bought; it's for amplifiers at a car stereo shop, but should do the trick.

I'm mounting it near the battery on the firewall in the engine compartment.

On the big hole side, a 4 guage wire from the battery is going; on the other side your headlight harness and your parking light hardness are going to get their electricity. I'm also hooking up my stereo (just a head unit, low wattage).

Tell me what you think; also, I know, the holes might be too small; if they are, I'm just going to drill them a little bigger.

[Zs-ondabrain]

that'll work great! It looks like a 1-4 gauge in and 4-8 gauge out. The biggest wire I have on a harness is 8 gauge on the HLH w/ foglight attachment.

You can even put both harness's power wires into one of the four holes if you want.

Dave.

[dogma420]

Yeah, I think it will work great....I'll have 4 guage on one side from the battery, and 8 guage on the other side for your headlight harness, the parking light harness, and a live feed for my stereo decks power.

I don't have a garage however, and I'm going to wait until this Portland, Oregon weather gets better....its been rainy and pretty cold outside....not the kind of weather I like to be out in for a few hours doing a dexterious task like wiring on my car....supposed to warm up next week so we'll see.