Is the asbestos fuel line cover necessary?

[ddezso]

Well, I just removed the covering (taking all appropriate precautions). The first picture is what it looked like inside the covering.

Under the fabric looking silver cover the fuel lines are wrapped in some sort of metal foil (picture 2).

Under the silver foil it appears the metal fuel lines were covered with rubber lines that have seriously melted or rotted. They are generally crumbly and sticky and I need to remove them next. Ultimately I will get to the metal fuel lines and hopefully clean them up. (pics 3 and 4)

Questions: Were these fuel lines originally covered with rubber? (BTW - I should note that my engine, based on the serial #, is from a 1974 260Z. The carbs and fuel system are not so I dont know if these lines are from the 1970 engine or the replacement).

Assuming I can remove all of the deteriorated rubber it appears the lines below are stained brown from toasted rubber. Any pointers on how to clean?

Thanks......................

[moonpup]

Yowzer.....that's some nasty looking sh*t.

Cleaning it from this point depends on what you have more of.... time or money. Personally, I'd look for a good used one to buy.

If you want to salvage those, maybe soak in solvent for a while then scrape away. When all residue is gone, then paint, cad plate or chrome, your choice .

Good luck.

[a7dz]

The originals were just cad plated. The 260 would of had the covering on the fuel lines. Explains where that insulation blanket came from.

[montoya_fan01]

the 73 that I previously owned, did not have the rubber that you mention. The cad plated lines were simply wrapped in the insulated blankets which were secured with tie-wraps (zip ties).

as for cleaning, I'd start with mineral spirits and a rag (no use in destroying any cad plating that might remain under the stains), if that doesn't do it I'd then us a non-metallic scub pad (Scotch-Brite or similar) and a solvent.

[kenz240z]

Just a guess, but I'd bet there probably isn't much cad plating left. Scrape off as much of the crud as you can with a putty knife or screwdriver. Then, as montoya suggest, use mineral spirits and a rag to remove any residue, or a Scotch-Brite pad and solvent. Then, have it replated, or use Eastwood's Cad Paint system to refinish it (www.eastwood.com).

As for the duct tape on the air filter...that should be blocked off. If you remove the duct tape, it will allow unfiltered air to enter the carbs. Follow Stephen's suggestion and look for a rubber cap that will fit. I think that is where the intake hose from the air pump would connect, to supply it with filtered air.

[beandip]

I have no idea why this standard equipment. Does that hole need to be plugged or can I remove that ugly tape? If it needs plugging how do other people do it?

Thanks....

COUPLE OF THINGS . fIRST OF ALL ALL THIS PANNIC ABOUT WHAT THE STUFF IS AND ALL . YOU ARE MAKING A MOUNTAIN OUT OF AN ANT HILL !! SIMPLEY JUST TAKE THE DARN STUFF OFF AND THROW IT AWAY !! IT WAS A METHOD THAT WAS TRIED TO ALIVIATE A PROBLEM AND IT ONLY MARGINALLY WORKED. THE ANSWER WAS TO USE THE ROUND TOP SUs . In fact if a customer complained enough this is what the dealer did. Also the addition of the electric fuel pump ,was what cured the boiling fuel problem in the fuel rail. The duct tape on the air cleaner is covering the port that was the clean air supply to the air injection pump. Easy fix is to simply plug the hole from the inside with a every day CORK !! ACE hardware has buckets of them . As to the standard equipment comment . The wrap was not necessarly standard it was a dealer mod . Just the same as the wheels on your car . Steel wheels with ugly hub caps was standard , anything other than that was added by the dealer. My 2 ¢

[kenz240z]

I'd be cautious about using a cork on the inside of the air cleaner. It would truly be a bummer if it came loose and got sucked into a carb...

[montoya_fan01]

I'd be cautious about using a cork on the inside of the air cleaner. It would truly be a bummer if it came loose and got sucked into a carb...

I completely agree.

Get a rubber plug (shaped like a cork) from a hardware store and insert it into the hole from the outside. DONE.

[=Enigma=]

I found a rubber EGR block-off cap in the misc/generic parts section in Kragen. You know, the area with all the common but misc pieces/parts by Lisle Co. I used it to cap off the air injection system on my 73 until I have time to remove the whole system and plug up the holes in the manifold. I was like $2.

[ddezso]

COUPLE OF THINGS . fIRST OF ALL ALL THIS PANNIC ABOUT WHAT THE STUFF IS AND ALL . YOU ARE MAKING A MOUNTAIN OUT OF AN ANT HILL !!

Gee...thanks Beandip. That was helpful. Clearly I am in a panic.

[ddezso]

To close the loop on this thread for others' benefit here is a pic of the fuel lines now that the covering is removed and they are fairly clean. I used mineral spirits and in some cases 400 grit sandpaper to clean the lines.

What I thought were deteriorated rubber hoses was actually some sort of molded on rubber type material that encased the lines. It came off in pieces. I have driven the car twice for about 20 min each with no hint of vapor lock problems. Outdoor temps were around 70F.

D

[adcvideo]

Use a substitute many aftermarket places supply a product that looks and behaves almost the same. It is made with fiberglass and aluminum coating.

They typically use it to protect wiring harness (hello) and such . This is what I have done and to install a 83" aux. cooling fan on my 77' plus a hood blanket,battery,and AFM wraps, keep the old stuff working and protetcted.

cheers

Dave