Fuel injector Prob. 77 280z

[sblake01]

I guess you're lucky so far. Most glass filters can handle only 10 p.s.i MAX., so the 35+ p.s.i of your fuel injection system is probably straining the glass to the max.

If you can find a high-pressure viewable filter, make sure you ;et us all know. Probably the best thing so far is a filter with a removeavle element that you can check ocasionally.

I tried glass filters back before I knew what I know now. It's the seals that go. The glass is generally thick enough to handle the pressure as I never had one break but the seals at either end would always deveop leaks eventually. I never was able to find a see thru filter rated for EFI. There are some for TBI systems but they aren't designed for the 35+psi these cars generate.

[jagnew3]

yes for sure on the seals. This filter and element combo is rated for about 20 max. It was never intended to be used more to start the car, and view the garbage that was going through. Definatly a lot more garbage then I wanted to see, but I did want to see what I had.. I removed the element tonight, and besides bad gas, there is a lot of gunk in the system. The steel one goes back on tomarrow..btw the car sat in the cold for 24 hrs, and fired up right away..pretty cool.

[TomoHawk]

Personally, I would consider putting the metal filter on, and letting the fuel pump run all the gas through the filter (be careful not to start a fire!), and catch it, then put back in the tank. That would filter out some junk. Then replace the fuel filter.

After I replace the fuel filter, I cut the old one down the length to see what's inside.

[jagnew3]

Yes the next step for me is to run a line from the metel filter to outside the garage to my "lawn mower fuel storage tank" It's the tank that all the fuel from old sea doo tanks, boat tanks andcar tanks goes. It's a 50 gal. farm tank. It seems my lawn mower will burn about anything as long as is is free of particles. It's way too old to but back in the car tank. Then I will work on the sending unit (not functioning) then I will fill the tank with good stuff, install a new filter etc.

My objective of yesterday was only to get it to start, and run. I didn't even know if it would run when I picked it up. Now I do and I can move on in a more proper way.. More then anything I wanted to share my joy with you guys, because some of the directions you pointed me in were spot on. Also thanks for the heads up on the glass filter

[sblake01]

I'd say you lucked out. When I got mine, in 1997, like I said, it had been sitting for 4+ years. There was so much stuff in the tank that wouldn't run over 2500 rpm. I had to change the tank. If yours runs normally you probably have lots of sediment but no clogs. You said the po started it once in a while. Probably just old gas. Run a fuel system treatment through it and come as close to running the car out of gas as you can before refilling it. At that point, fill it up and change the fuel filter to the proper one. I used that procedure with my 810 when I bought it three years ago and have had no problems since.

[jagnew3]

I feel real lucky , I really expected a bunck of work to get it to even start, much less run decent. I'm not getting much in the element since I cleaned it..but the smell of old gas is always in the air.

[sblake01]

Yeah, you should be okay if you just run it out. On my 810, I did contemplate pulling the tank and draining it. But I got away with just running the old gas out with a fuel system cleaner (I use Seafoam) changing the filter and refilling w/fresh gas. On my Z, well the tank was toast. The main difference is that the 810 was started up once and a while by the p.o. and the Z wasn't.

[jagnew3]

I'm amazed at how easy to find, many of the sensors, filters, etc really are. What are some of the harder to find things?

[sblake01]

I've never really had a problem finding efi parts. Since the junkyards don't have a clue what they are, at least the ones I go to, I usually bring quite a few home for next to nothing. I test them and if they're good, I keep them. I have amassed a pretty good stash of relays, sensors, valves, switches, etc. over the years. Having two cars with basically the same system, they do come in handy.

[TomoHawk]

No Zs in my area, or within 200 miles. These salvage yards junk anything over 10 years old.

[sblake01]

I've got 5 yards within a 25 mile range of where I live plus two more in the High Dessert about 40 miles from here. They're all over in Southern California.

[jagnew3]

Okay, I didn't give much background on the car yet, and now that I've had a few days to play with it running here is a laundry list of what's not working. Mind you I haven't spent a lot of time fixing..just diagnosing...and now airing the laundry.

I picked up the car for $500..it has new paint, and tires. The guy never put the chrome back on, or the mirror, hood vents, door locks..side markers etc... and you already know it would not start for him. He did a good job painting..not great..but good. The floor is good..frame is good . Back seat good, fornt seat bottoms are rough. Carpet is good, but needs dyed. headliner looks good, but is saggy. side mirror base plastic and power antenna..broke

so that's cosmetic stuff.

So far I know the following do not work:

1.) side marker lights (all the other lights work

2.) the heater hoses get nice and warm..the air does not (blows like you wouldn't believe)

3.)speedometer( does twitch like it wants to work, but won't)

4.)clock(geeze what do I want for $500?)

5.)fuel guage (sems to move up to empty from below empty when powered)

that is pretty much all I could find broken or not functioning.

Brakes..while surface rusted are about new. Even the under hood work light works.