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Fuel injector Prob. 77 280z


jagnew3

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For the side markers, check all the bulbs and connections. The heater, check the ducting that connects the blower to the vents. Speedo could be a bad cable, mine was broken when I got my car. Clock, well that's just one of those things. Took me a few months of junkyard searching to find a good one. I even made a 'clock tester' from a clock plug, wire and a couple of alligator clips. Fuel guage, could be a stuck float, connections at the float, or the guage itself. I went through all of that stuff when I bought mine. You have yours running so that puts you ahead of where I was at that stage.

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I'm having a blast with it. I'll have a full day Saturday to dig in to some of the problems, Then I'm taking it down to a local parking lot to burn some fuel (big Big empty lot)

Should I hear a shhhh noise when switching between ac/ heat/ vent? Cause, I hear no change when I move that lever. I do know that is opens and closes what I believe is the defrost door.

So far this week I have

1.) replaced the fuel filter (with a proper one)

2.) replaced the thermostat (180 deg)

3.) Installed the side marker lights

4.) temp. install the dr side mirror (that was a fun bolt to get to)

5.) change the oil

6.) air filter change

7.) installed front turn signals (rear turn signals) and lic plate lights

8.) new plugs

9.)pcv valve

10.) and reinstalled the rear window louver

tonight I'm going over all the vacume lines. I have rolls of diff. dia line, and a kit filled with various t's and y's in various sizes..might as well start fresh. I need to find a good bone yard close to here, and start searching.

My theory of working on stuff..get it to run..then spend money on other things. I build Rotax sea doo engines on the side..so I'm no slouch..I've built Volvo bb70 inboards (1963), and built go kart engines for years. And I have even played with cars...the electirical stuuf is my weak point on cars, and this having a computer, is a bit strange for me. Plus the cars I have worked on in the past were older, and American..so this is a bit of a challenge. You, and searching the site have been a great help..any other hints are more then welcome. Thanks John

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At the point you are, I'd say you need a few cans of DeOxit 5 and DeOxit 100, and maybe a gallon of Evap O Rust. When I got my car, I just started going through the engine bay to clean, and if I saw an electrical connector, I unplugged it to look inside, then give a shot of DeOxit 5 or 100 ( as needed) and reconnect. Eventually, I had a day (weekend) when I got to do the taillights, and running lights, another weekend for the gauges, etc. I prioritized the cleaning in order to get it safe enough to drive around in the day, then at night. Lately, I've been going after the connections in the back- fuel level sender, fuel pump, etc.

For the heater, I'd suggest checking the vaccum lines to that. My car (Florida car) had to get all the rubber hoses & such replaced immediately because they were all dried out, cracked. leaking vaccuum lines will not help the geater work right. You might also need a coolant system flush (rusty heater water valve inside). It wouldn't hurt to get one.

When you say the antenna is broke, what does that mean, it won't go up & down by itself? I just leave mine up.

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Electrical tip for sure..Before I tried to even start it, I cleaned all the inj system connections, easy to do..and avoids problems later.

The antenna ("drive cable") plastic inner cable is broke. The stub that is left goes up in and out..no problem.

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sblake...the car you are showing (blue) is the same color as mine. Does it have a name (the color..besides blue..LOL)

also..when ever I have worked on old cars in the past, the stainless trim screws usually have a sticky gum like product coating them..anyone know what that is? I assume it's to seal around the sheet metal, and maybe to help with vibration (backing out) etc...

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Oh and I can't really find a good picture in either manual I have..what kind of nut, does the windshild wiper arm attach with?..I have a bunch of nuts and such..but nothing in the parts box seems to match.

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Here's a couple of pics of the windshield wiper nuts. A 14mm wrench fits them. Hope they're clear enough. The color on my car is code 510 (Sky Blue). Here's a link to member mperdue's color codes. Scroll down the the 260-260Z codes. That's actually the same shot of my car on that page.

http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

post-3797-14150796872341_thumb.jpg

post-3797-14150796872586_thumb.jpg

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Thanks..nice ride! I knew it had to have a threaded sleeve, with a nut on top, but wasnt sure if it would be domed or not. I wonder if that will be a tough one to come up with..better get yard hopping LOL.

I looked at your gallery..nice stuff. I too keep a computer in the garage, it helps when all your sea doo stuff in on cd rom. I even keep an old printer out there.

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If you'd like I could send you a couple of them. I have plenty. Both my cars (Z and 810) use the same ones but they are an easy find in the 'yards. I also have a printer on my garage computer. It's actually a printer/scanner/copier, one of the cheap HP models. I can just print out the section I'm working on and keep my manuals clean.

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got the heater working. Someone will have the technical term here, But I'll say it was the vac line going to the top of the white canister on the passenger side under the hood. Had a big ole split in it. Replaced it, and it works like new. Now on to the running lights! Thanks again to all. I wanted to post what I found, because many who ask for help seem to never offer feedback for those who might search the same problem later. And, that's just rude.

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Couldn't sleep last night, s as a result, as of this am, the marker lights all work(guy had wrong bulbs) the fuel guage works (sending unit had been re wired...and the ends were just twisted together, access panel is awesome) Radio works, parking brake light works ( dude could not wire anything I guess) Tomarrow night Err tonight I guess..trim and badges.

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