Temporarily Protecting Bare Metal

[Trudge]

I am preping my 77Z for a new paint job and in the process of sanding I have cut through the original paint and exposed bare metal in some places. What should I do to protect the bare metal from rusting. It will go to the paint shop in about a month for a Base Coat/ Clear Coat paint job. It is stored inside my garage.

Thanks

[montoya_fan01]

treat with OSPHO. http://www.ospho.com/

[beandip]

Are you keeping the car inside out of the weather ? If so just shoot it with primer , if you must keep the car exposed then cover the primer with any paint that you have . The painter will sand it off any way and this will seal the primer from moisture. On my car I wiped it down with wax and grease remover first then primer. I painted the car in the garage. After the final sanding of the last primer coat , I shot the car with epoxy primer , white , to seal the surface and to make the car all the same color . My finish color is yellow . If it were black or a dark color , then the primer would have been dark. I think you need to talk to your painter , to see what he expects to see when you bring the car to him. And what he is planning to do to the car . EScanlon shot the color and clear on my car , credit to him for sure . Gary

[26th-Z]

OSPHO is a 15% phosphoric acid which is actually classified as a rust encapsulator. I like it to treat metal before painting. RM makes an 801 metal ready product that is similar. These products treat (etch) the metal and prepare it for a primer application. Spray on and wipe dry with a clean paper towel.

On the other hand, as beandip points out, a simple self etching primer at this stage of the game is all that is really needed. Just spot prime. RM and SEM sell self etching primer in spray cans. Neither one of these suggestions weather proofs the metal. NO-no outside!

[Trudge]

I've completely stripped the floorpans and treated them with "Marine Clean", "Metal Ready", and "POR15", so I have some of the Metal ready left over. The Metal Ready product etches the metal and leaves a Zinc Oxide finish. I did the same thing on the Headlight buckets but I applied SEM Self Etching Primer instead of POR15.

It sounds like I've been doing it right all along. I'll clean and prep the bare metal with "Metal Ready" and then spot prime with SEM Self Etching Primer.

Thanks

[BadDog]

When I repainted by Z, it took the better part of a year to strip the paint panel by panel, and I used Picklex 20 to keep the metal from rusting. It gets rid of old rust too. I never had any problems with rust starting to form, and when it was time to lay down primer on anythin gi Used Picklex 20 on, I just scuffed it with a green scuff pad first. The stuff works very well (people rave about it on the forums at autobodystore.com),the only caveat being its not compatible with etching primers...

-Ken P.

[webdawg1]

Here's a link and some info on a web site I found the other night. Might be of some interest for short term/long term storage requirements for body panels, misc. parts, spot repairs....etc...etc. Have a small sample (VCI-377) coming so I can run some sample tests for myself...

http://www.cortecvci.com/index2.php

webdawg1

VCI-377.pdf

[ncz]

Jerry, usually the Metal Ready will keep the flash rust off for a long time. I have sanded down a lot of my engine compartment(to bare metal) and hit it with the Metal Ready and there has been no flash rust at all. Heck, even where I scrapped off the tar mat inside the car has had no flash rust and I didn't even treat it at all. Good luck, let us know what you are going to do with the paint!!