montoya_fan01 said:

What are "passing lights"? Momentary High Beams?

FWIW, the JH HAYNES Manual is published in England (yes, it's distributed in USA) and probably not based on a North American Market HLS30

It (Haynes) also mentions the DAF 'carburettor' which is a single downdraft two barrel as the standard 240Z intake for cars without emission control. There are a few other things in that manual that don't exist on NAM cars that I can't think of right off the top of my head. One of those manifolds is always on eBay with a rather high buy it now price. But, to answer the question, yes passing lights are momentary high beams. My 810 has them.

So I FINALLY got around to pulling the connectors apart and cleaning them with a needle file. I know I suck..... I have just had other, more important issues that I have had to take care of. However, this did not fix the problem. You guys mentioned the right kick panel. Do you mean the one in the passenger footwell where the fuse box is?

Mike:

Check the Red/White wire that connects to your Turn Signal switch Dimmer. If it's not properly hooked up, no juice can flow to the high beams.

Hope this helps.

Enrique

  EScanlon said:

Mike:

Check the Red/White wire that connects to your Turn Signal switch Dimmer. If it's not properly hooked up, no juice can flow to the high beams.

Hope this helps.

Enrique

I will try and look at it some time this weekend. That would be GREAT if that is all it is! Thanks!

I got under the dash last night and looked. If you mean the red wire with a white stripe that is in the middle of the column, about where it meets the dash - someone (NOT me) has unplugged that wire and has a jumper plugged into it that appears to go to the back of the stereo! I found a black wire, with the right connector to plug into that red/white wire, that was just loose in that same area. The thing is that my brights used to work, and that wire has to have been that way since before I owned the car. Is it possible that BOTH connectors were plugged into it before, and the factory one just pulled out? I was afraid to just reconnect it without knowing what it was.

I'm currently re-organizing the garage and all the Z parts are tucked away (I'm working on my Roadster), so I can't tell you what color wire you might expect on the dimmer switch portion of the turn signal switch.

That black wire you used may in fact be the connection to ground that the dimmer switch is looking to connect with when IT is switched. It MAY be that you now have permanent High beams just when you turn on your lights.

Take the clamshell off the turn signal / combination switch and see what wires go to the turn signal switch and in turn to the dimmer switch. Then if necessary get your trusty multi-meter out and check what happens when you click switches etc.

The wiring colors I'm giving you are from a 240, they should be very close if not identical to what you have in the 280, but since I don't have a 280 I can't guarantee that.

Take out your wiring diagram, and you should be able to discern where the individual wires going to the switches connect to. Don't forget that the wiring on the switch side didn't necessarily match the wiring color on the harness side, so go by the wiring colors on the harness to compare to the wiring schematic.

But as far as power to the stereo coming from the steering column area...well, I've seen it done, but it would be best to power directly from the fuse box or battery.

I'll look around and see if I have a wiring schematic for the 75 280 other than those at atlantic z club.

E

I havent read the whole thing but what's the possibility that the hi beam switch is just bad? I know it may sound obvious and dumb but when it comes to Z cars, that's ussualy what the answer turns out being.

Someone find the hi beam wire on his model of Z and let him know what wire to test or run power to to test it (+) or (-)?

jm2cw

Dave.

If the wiring schematic I checked for the 75 is correct, then there are two three-wire connectors for the turn signal switch and one loose bullet connector. There's a total of 7 wires.

The first 3-wire connector has all 3 wires one on top of the other, and if it's similar to the earlier series connectors then it's the THIN spade lug connector, with all 3 in a row. This connects the turn-signals to the switch.

The second 3-wire connector, per the schematic is a 3-wire T connector. Again if it's akin to the early Z's, then it's the wider spade connector and the wires are arranged similar to a grounded house plug, except that the round "ground" is another flat spade connector. (hope this makes sense)

The bullet connector is to connect the ground connection on the Combination Switch to the Turn Signal Switch's ground connection. (The ground for both is made to the Comb. Sw. first.)

The "T" connector should have both a Red/White and a Red/Black wire as well as a Green/Black. The G/B wire is for the horn, so you can ignore it for now.

The Dimmer switch just connects EITHER the Red/White to Ground OR the Red/Black to Ground. It does not connect them to each other at all.

First disconnect the T connector. This will help isolate the Dimmer switch (and also the horn, but we're not working on that). Next make a small jumper wire to connect to the individual wires in the harness side of the connector.

Next, check that your headlight high beams work by grounding the Red/White to ground (bypassing the T/S switch), and then turn on your headlights. You should have HIGH beams on now. Do the same with the R/B wire and you should see the LOW beams come on.

If everything checks (both turn on the headlights) then do a continuity check on your switch.

Hope this helps, post your results so we can label this problem gone.

Enrique

Are you sure the high beam lamps are good? I know its highly unlikely both burned out at the same time but you never know unless you check.

Good Luck

  hd240z said:

Are you sure the high beam lamps are good? I know its highly unlikely both burned out at the same time but you never know unless you check.

Good Luck

Not a bad idea, I spent about an hour chasing brake light switch and fuses etc on a ute only to find that both globes had burnt out for brake but not tail lights (same globe). The very last thing I suspected to have happened.

Its definitely not the lamps. I have actually replaced the bulbs since they stopped working.

Do an even more basic test.

Stick a multimeter at the connector for the headlights and see if you get continuity at both the R/W and R/B with relation to the Red wire for the Right Head Lamp and Red/Yellow for the Left.

If you get tones on both elements and both sides, then your lamps are fine.

You'll still need to determine if you're getting power out there.

E