Need to wash for wax?

[EScanlon]

I posted my request for Car Detailers, kind of tongue-in-cheek.

The reason for that is that a GOOD Car Detailer knows that there ARE tricks to saving time and effort in order to get a superb job, and wannabe Detailers are constantly trying to find ways of short-cutting the job.....period.

If you did in fact do a good job compounding and polishing, then from what I learned while at the body shop, DEFINITELY do some form of washing. Whether it's a thorough rinse only or the full soap/sponge soft scrub and then a full and thorough copious water rinse, what you will be removing is whatever contaminants/compound you did not whisk away in your prior step. I was taught to have the CLEANEST possible surface for EACH and EVERY step of the job. Whether it was for Primer, Bondo, Paint, Clear, Rubbing Compound, Wax, you want it clean-clean-clean. Overkill? Possibly, but the difference is visible.....to the trained and observant eye. It does take a bunch of time, and yes lots of effort, but that's why some Car Detailers get $150+ PER job. Unfortunately, there's a bunch of "just-as-good" product advertisements out there. Heck, there's even a product to Wax AND Wash your car in ONE step. Does it work? Yes, it does, as long as the base paint and finish are in excellent condition. But if it isn't, and/or the paint needs help, then you need to spend the time. You're half way there now in revitalizing a 30+ year old paint job, might as well finish it properly. (At least properly as in what I was taught.)

So using copious amounts of water, and just a capful or so of car soap in a 3 gallon bucket, wash that car. Start by wetting the whole car, then squish a big soft sponge into the soap suds and start at the roof. Work your way down the car keeping the sponge filled to the dripping point. When you run out of suds in the sponge, and you're not trying to SAVE the suds, RINSE again from the top of the car. Use the "FLOOD" or the "SHOWER" setting on your nozzle and let the water literally flood the suds off. Re-fill your sponge and continue from where you had run out. When you rinse, rinse from a point HIGHER than where you ran out of suds. Remember, the soap is there to allow whatever dirt/contaminants to "slide" off the car, the water pushes the suds off.

When you've completely sudsed and rinsed the car, wet any panels that may have had the water sheeted off. Moisten your chamois and starting at the top, use it as a SHEET and sweep/absorb the water as you pull on the chamois. Don't let the chamois hit the car dry, and THEN soak up water. Wet the chamois to the drip point, then wring it out. If you have access to an old pair of washing machine rollers, then definitely roll/squeege the chamois. Don't use it bunched up, remember, you're using it to remove the last bits of moisture.

Follow that with an air blower and a chamois to remove the last bits of moisture in all those seams/pits/catch-points. Your car should now be as dry as you can get it without waiting for the water to evaporate.

If you're worried about water creeping into areas that "might" cause problems....that is, Rust, then you haven't finished protecting your car. Check to see if you can find and eliminate those areas.

Then, IF the temperature is above 68°F (20°C), do your Wax job. If you let it get TOO hot, then expect to have to work the car in very small panels as the wax will flash quickly. If you try to work it at colder temperatures, then expect the wax to take forever to flash, and be ~extremely~ hard to remove (Be prepared for swirl marks galore). Above all these precautions, do NOT wash and wax in the full sun or on a HOT day.

But that's what I learned at a body shop.

E

[mlc240z]

Enrique,

reading your description i find myself curiously arousedROFLROFL

[Alex 240Z]

EScanlon !!! Excellent information never heard of such a detailed explaination of a wash and wax proceedure thanks !!!!

[TomoHawk]

Enrique-

I totally agree with you on how to wash & wax. The only thing I'd add is that the soap is there to trap the dirt in the littlest bubbles, and the water flushes all that to the groundI used to be a soap Chemist). Don't forget to do the dirty wheel wells, wheel covers, etc. FIRST with a DIFFERENT sponge or a nice brush. I use a plastic pot scrubber for inside the wheel wells, but usually just rince those.

Have you, any opinions on the synthetic chammy? At the boat show, they show you how they aborb like a gallon of water, and then you buy a 12-pack to give away to your friends.

[EScanlon]

I have a couple of those synthetic shammies, and I use them on the interior plastic panels, dash, and other areas where I do want an absorbent cloth and don't want to risk tearing or soiling the chamois. They work real well on rubber trim and other parts.

But as far as the exterior paint and glass, I have the largest true chamois I could find. I think it's about 5 sq. ft. or so (20" or so wide, by 30" or so long), and it was the thickest one in the store at the time. I also have a wall mount wringer, bought it through McMaster-Carr years ago, but it pays for itself in how I can wring out my chamois, sponges, cloths, etc..

The synthetics do a good job of drying and absorbing, but unlike a chamois which can literally get to the dripping stage and not leave streaks of water behind, the synthetics seem to ALWAYS leave a streak. I think it's something to do with the basic nature of the leather which the synthetics can't imitate.

Like you, I've bought at the state fair and have my "12-pack" of synthetic shammy cloths....which have slowly been used up. I may have to replenish this year. But I have a pair of chamois leathers that go back 15 years, and another one that goes back 8. The trick is in caring for them and in allowing them to dry.

FWIW

Enrique

[Alfadog]

...that's what I learned at a body shop.

Thanks Enrique. I feel rather proud after your expert explanation (just the basics though I am sure) as it seems that what I do is spot on! Any more helpful hints you can think of?