greetings from the other side

building a GT2 road racer in moncton new brunswick

anyone have a dry sump system for sale ?

more photos available at www.atlanticz.ca

cheers!

I do not understand your cage. Where do the rear braces attach... The floor? What are you going to attach to the forward brace where your strut bars attach? That is NOT very strong. Who designed this cage? You need a bar running from the front passenger side hoop to the rear strut mount. I am totally lost in looking at your cage. Is it not done?

obviously the cage isnt finnished yet.

its being built according to scca rules .

the cage attaches to plates welded over the sub frames.

cheers

I've seen a couple cages built that way, but I tend to agree with Zsaint. The weak part of the Z isn't the rear of the subframe, it's the strut tower. So it would be better structurally to tie the strut tower to the hoop instead of the back of the subframe. Most people put a plate on the trapezoidal area behind the strut itself and then have a tube coming off the hoop hit that plate. No reason not to add another bar to hit the strut towers.

yes, i need to add another brace on each side, from the main hoop to the rear towers.

as you can see in the photo, ive welded a plate there already .

still have a dozen pieces to fit

ill post more photos in a week when we ve made more progress.

cheers!

To answer the guy's question, I haven't seen anything for sale recently, but I beleive you can still buy the ARE pan new. The web page is a bit dated, but here it is: http://www.drysump.com/pan16b.htm

I'm in the process of converting to a dry sump system now. I was lucky enough to find a used set-up for a good price, but a bracket still needs to be fabricated for the pump in my case. But other than the pump bracket and pan, all the other items are "off the shelf" ones anyways.

Now's the time for you to decide if you want to run an alternator, or possibly relocate it to the driveshaft. It will make the job a little easier if you can mount the pump in the alternator location. The added weight will be on the correct side of the car, as well as the lines shorter and better placed. Unfortunately for me, I decided to keep the alternator, and will use the AC compressor mounts. I've yet to fabricate the bracket, but will post pics when I do.

If you use an ATI damper, they also sell a nice dry sump mandrel which bolts to the front, and goes for about $150US. The damper will require a custom hub machined by ATI, but they have the one they did for me on file. I beleive the hub will cost around $150, and the damper itself is also an "off the shelf" item, and goes for about $300.

You can probably find a good used tank on Ebay. It appears there was a rule change in some circle burner class, and dry sumps have been outlawed. At least when I found mine, there where many out there because of this. A Patterson or Peterson tank is recomended, in at least a 3 gallon capacity.

Thanks Prieth i was looking for that site and could find it.

Gee what a guy has to do to get his answers around here

thanx for the info

very helpful

No problem guys,

I also wanted to add that the dry sump pump must be a three stage (2 for the pan pick-ups and 1 for pressure). I have a Weaver pump, a quick ebay search resulted in some matches, including this one for reference:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WEAVER-3-STAGE-DRY-SUMP-OIL-PUMP_W0QQitemZ4621126585QQcategoryZ107061QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You're certainly taking a risk buying a used pump, but they are rebuildable, and replacement parts are accessible. There are other manufacturers out there, but I have no idea what, and which ones are better, etc. I like the "tried and trued" reputation which Weaver has.

I'm in the process of converting to a dry sump system now. I was lucky enough to find a used set-up for a good price, but a bracket still needs to be fabricated for the pump in my case. But other than the pump bracket and pan, all the other items are "off the shelf" ones anyways.

Now's the time for you to decide if you want to run an alternator, or possibly relocate it to the driveshaft. It will make the job a little easier if you can mount the pump in the alternator location. The added weight will be on the correct side of the car, as well as the lines shorter and better placed. Unfortunately for me, I decided to keep the alternator, and will use the AC compressor mounts. I've yet to fabricate the bracket, but will post pics when I do.

Hi Phil, it sounds like you're getting pretty serious here. Will you be lowering the engine when you drysump it?

For the pump mount make it out of aluminum and very thick. A friend of mine found that this worked much better on his GT-4 car running a 4 cylinder L-series. He mentioned that they did the same thing on their Z. From his description it sounded like this dampened harmonics that caused problems on the belt drive. They also ran a pressure switch (30 PSI I think) wired to the ignition. If a belt dropped it killed the motor.

I have a few pics but none directly of this I could send you. They ran the pump on the same side as you're looking at. I don't know if this would help or not.

Cary

Hi Phil, it sounds like you're getting pretty serious here. Will you be lowering the engine when you drysump it?

For the pump mount make it out of aluminum and very thick. A friend of mine found that this worked much better on his GT-4 car running a 4 cylinder L-series. He mentioned that they did the same thing on their Z. From his description it sounded like this dampened harmonics that caused problems on the belt drive. They also ran a pressure switch (30 PSI I think) wired to the ignition. If a belt dropped it killed the motor.

I have a few pics but none directly of this I could send you. They ran the pump on the same side as you're looking at. I don't know if this would help or not.

Cary

Yeah, it's a disease... Short term I'll be leaving the motor "as is" with my custom 2" back solid mounts at the stock height, but my project next winter (if I don't crash the car again) will be lowering it and at the same time making my custom crossmember utilizing the stock car steering rack w/adjustable ackerman that I've spoken so much about in the past. After that, it's the tube frame car, if I ever make it that far...

I'm glad you mentioned the thick mount. The Weaver pump has just under 1.5" of spacing between the mounts. I simply bought 1.5" thick plate aluminum stock and will be joining them in a right angle by drilling/tapping and bolting the two sections together with some real beefy bolts. There's a weaver pump pic in Honzowetz's book which mine will look almost exactly like when it's all done. More pic's are always nice.

The pressure switch sounds like an excellent idea. Any products you can provide links for??

Another small item which just popped in my head that I posted on Hybrid a while back. A, 18mm X 1.5mm to 10AN adapter fitting is required for the oil filter boss plug. After that you're home free with the standard AN fittings.

I'm in limbo now as to if I should run 16AN lines to and from the tank, or use 12's. The tank I bought has 16's welded on, and since I haven't bought any of the other fittings yet, the cost would be marginally more than 12's. I'll have to buy adapter fittings somewhere for the lines, at the tank or the pump, and they're both about the same price.

The pressure switch sounds like an excellent idea. Any products you can provide links for??

Another small item which just popped in my head that I posted on Hybrid a while back. A, 18mm X 1.5mm to 10AN adapter fitting is required for the oil filter boss plug. After that you're home free with the standard AN fittings.

I'm in limbo now as to if I should run 16AN lines to and from the tank, or use 12's. The tank I bought has 16's welded on, and since I haven't bought any of the other fittings yet, the cost would be marginally more than 12's. I'll have to buy adapter fittings somewhere for the lines, at the tank or the pump, and they're both about the same price.

I'll see if Steve can give me what switch they use. I think it was a standard pressure switch. Steve uses dash 16 and this was recommended by Rebello for his motor.

One thing to consider is with the pan up a bit you have a lot more room for under engine bracing. And if you're going to build a new crossmember we should chat. I think there's a bunch you can do here.

Cary