John Coffey Posted March 15, 2006 Share #13 Posted March 15, 2006 They also ran a pressure switch (30 PSI I think) wired to the ignition. If a belt dropped it killed the motor.I heard of people doing this and it has to be one of the dumbest ideas I've ever heard of. Have the switch trigger a big red light, not kill the engine.Imagine this: Turn 2 at the California Speedway road course, 145+ mph, and your engine shuts off. Off you go into the wall, backwards! But hey, your main and rod bearings will be OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted March 15, 2006 Share #14 Posted March 15, 2006 Afterwards I though of that too; what would happen if the engine killed at a certain corner on a particular track. Sounded great at first but now I dunno... California Speedway is certainly an extreme example. I don't have any super speedways around here to race on, but it wouldn't be pretty at the Milwaukee Mile either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZSaint Posted March 15, 2006 Share #15 Posted March 15, 2006 We always used a big red light right by the tach. When it turned RED, you shut her down in a hurry. It would always blink when you came in after a race. With a hot motor and oil, you don't have much pressure at 1200 rpm. It was good to know that the system worked! Anmother thing is will do is check out the oil pick-up. If you are starving for oil, the light will also blink. It is an excellent tool. Easy to install and cheap! I believe we got a switch that came on below 10#. Mopar switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vin00127 Posted March 18, 2006 Author Share #16 Posted March 18, 2006 good info after looking at a few other designs ive made some changes to my roll cage. in passing , here is my rotissery, i built for 4000lbs , using engine stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted March 18, 2006 Share #17 Posted March 18, 2006 Looks familiar. Except yours looks nice, and mine looks like some jackass is using engine stands as a rotiserrie! What all are you doing underneath? Whatever it is, I'm sure you'll agree that having the rotisserie sure makes it nicer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vin00127 Posted March 18, 2006 Author Share #18 Posted March 18, 2006 found this other car a few years ago by chance , frozen in somone's flooded backyard, the car was literally put on ice for a while. i paid for the car, but then had to wait for the spring thaw to retreive it out of the water . complete with original motor. serial number 00127 production 1969. im doing the whole car. basically everything, the bottom 6 inches front to rear was literally missing or rotted . i had another donor car for a few parts but fabricated most from scratch including subframes and crossmembers. the car was only worth saving cause of the serial number. i ve been working on it on and off for the last 8 months . the roster makes it so much easier before and after (so far) cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZSaint Posted March 18, 2006 Share #19 Posted March 18, 2006 I had a rotisserie built for my 240. I did not know how much easier it was to work on the car until I had it "up". I took it to the body/paint shop on the rack. The body guy had never worked on a car "up". He said it made a huge difference in working on and painting the car. The underside is just a neat as the top side! I left it for another guy who is painting his 240. Might as well use it rather than letting it sit in storage. Looking at yours makes me almost want to do anther one. Almost! You are doing a nice job of restoration. Another one saved! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vin00127 Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share #20 Posted March 30, 2006 the cage is just about done the rear shock towers wont be going anywheres next week we start painting cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmortensen Posted March 30, 2006 Share #21 Posted March 30, 2006 Think you got enough structure there? How much weight did you add with all those bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZSaint Posted March 30, 2006 Share #22 Posted March 30, 2006 Well, it will be strong. But you could have made it lighter and it would have been just as strong. For instance, having the X frame behind the driver. One diagonal bar would have stiffened the bar and car. The other brace is superfulous. The X that goes to the rear of the car is of no purpose. There is nothing back there to attach to. Sheet metal just does not need to be stregthened for safety sake. I guess if you race at Daytona and go 200 mph, it will be a great cage! Consider your driver to be safe from everything except fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vin00127 Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share #23 Posted March 30, 2006 in all there is 130 ft of cage .@ almost 2lbs per foot = approx 250lbs of tubing . the extra cross adds about 30 lbsbut its added safety for the fuel cell. in case of a bump in the rear.oh well .there it is. we ll see how it performs in a few weeks. cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctomkins Posted April 8, 2006 Share #24 Posted April 8, 2006 Why don't you just buy my GT2 and save yourself some major $$.I'm selling it for $17k obo Comes with extra engine ,three trannies too much to list.Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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