240z GT2

[vin00127]

interesting proposition

looks nice

maybe ill buy some parts if you want to sell a few things .

my car is half done already.

we just applied 3 coats of RUST BULLET paint .

my kirkey seat and safecraft system came in this week.

[vin00127]

the cage and body is done.

a fellow from iceland has named the car the - Zilver Bullet.

next is the reassembly and testing with 4 weeks left before the season starts.

[moonpup]

Now that's the way to do stripes on a Z! Excellent job.

[veritech-z]

I heard of people doing this and it has to be one of the dumbest ideas I've ever heard of. Have the switch trigger a big red light, not kill the engine.

Imagine this: Turn 2 at the California Speedway road course, 145+ mph, and your engine shuts off. Off you go into the wall, backwards! But hey, your main and rod bearings will be OK.

I know this is an old thread, but I was bored at work and reading through the archives...All you guys concerned about losing oil pressure at speed, are you familiar with these?

It's called an "accusump" and it accumulates oil pressure in a reserve canister while driving, and if it detects a low pressure condition, it will inject a burst of oil into the engine to compensate. Here is how the website explains their operation:

On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up.

The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off.

After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump.

This moves the piston back and pressurizes the Accusump until it equalizes with engine's oil pressure.

While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason, the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal.

This release of oil could last from 15 to 60 seconds, depending on the size and speed of the engine.

In racing or hard driving conditions, the Accusump will automatically fill and discharge when needed as you corner, accelerate and brake.

Here's a link to the website:

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html

15-60 seconds should be plenty of time to finish coming out of your corner and start slowing down safely in the event of a belt loss.

[Steve Parmley]

I came across a build thread for the car with a few more photos.

http://atlanticz.ca/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=98&topic=1041.0

[mark belrose]

Hi Phil, it sounds like you're getting pretty serious here. Will you be lowering the engine when you drysump it?

I have a few pics but none directly of this I could send you. They ran the pump on the same side as you're looking at. I don't know if this would help or not.

Cary

Unless you are running a tube frame car where the front cross member has been replaced with something else, you'd have an extremely hard time lowering the engine. As it was, I had to grind off part of my ARE dry sump pan to get a little clearance with the cross member. It made me a little nervous to say the least grinding away on that pan.

My dry sump system is set up very nicely, with the pump on the driver's side. It's all plumbed as shown within the How to Hotrod and Race Your Datsun book or The How to Modify...Book, can't remember which.

Email me at markbelrose@hotmail.com if needed and I can go out and take some pictures. There's one or two w/in my gallery on this website.

Mark Belrose

'70 240Z original SCCA C Production

dry sumped, crankfire, triple 50 Mikunis

[mark belrose]

I know this is an old thread, but I was bored at work and reading through the archives...All you guys concerned about losing oil pressure at speed, are you familiar with these?

It's called an "accusump" and it accumulates oil pressure in a reserve canister while driving, and if it detects a low pressure condition, it will inject a burst of oil into the engine to compensate. Here is how the website explains their operation:

If you are running a dry sump, it negates the need for an accusump. There's always positive pressure around the corners since there's no where for the oil to slosh to.

Mark

[preith]

Unless you are running a tube frame car where the front cross member has been replaced with something else, you'd have an extremely hard time lowering the engine. As it was, I had to grind off part of my ARE dry sump pan to get a little clearance with the cross member. It made me a little nervous to say the least grinding away on that pan.

I've been meaning to revisit the dry sump project since I've got mine going, this is also a major point I've been meaning to bring up. As Mark stated, the ARE pan actually provides LESS clearance than even the wet sump comp. pan, which has a shallow scavenge tray added to the front underside of the stock pan. I too had to do some grinding, but only a small portion of the ribs at the very front.

I opted to modify the stock cross member by lowering the steering rack about 3/4". This of course threw off the bumpsteer big time which was remedied by drilling out the knuckes, converting to rod ends and spacers. I bolted the cross member to the engine while on the stand checked for clearance but it wasn't until it was in the car and at the proper angle that additional "clearancing" was nessesary.

BTW, I had been meaning to switch the outer tie rods to conventional rod ends anyways, but drilling the knuckles turned out to be big PITA. The pieces are heat treated from the factory. After burning up standard and cobalt drill bits I took it to a machine shop; he ended up using a $200 carbide bit to get through. The end result was a car which handled noticably better then before the entire project, so I was happy.

[jmortensen]

I drilled out my knuckles and had a BIG problem with the first drill bit I used. I tried to drill through with a dry bit and it got dull FAST. Then I tried to sharpen the bit and that was a complete failure. The second time around I used bacon grease as cutting fluid and I drilled two of them with a Home Depot bit in about 5 minutes flat. The bit is still around and still sharp.

[Rockr69]

looks awesome, I'm jealous! So when are you comin over to do mine?