I think what you would want to do is adjust the end to approximately the same length as the non adjustable pin, and completely ignore the normal adjustment routine.

So how do I know if the slave I have is a manual adjustment vs automatic?

So the concensus seems to be that you don't need the spring with a new slave.

So how do I know if the slave I have is a manual adjustment vs automatic?

There is no real difference in the slave cylinder itself (except you might have to drill a hole to connect the spring). The difference is in the pin and the throwout fork.

So the concensus seems to be that you don't need the spring with a new slave.

I don't think it's quite as simple as that. You might say that since the difference between the two is minor, the manual adjust slave can be used as an automatic. I'd like to hear from someone else to make sure my idea of setting the pin length the same as the automatic is all that is necessary. I can't see a reason why that shouldn't work, but that was just an off the cuff suggestion.

I would reiterate that having the manual adjust enables you to set the clutch how you like it. I think this is a big plus and I wouldn't trade my adjustable setup for a non-adjustable unless I had to.

I'm really confused now! My slave has a hole for the spring, but the fork does not. Looks like a miss match to me. After suspecting that the slave was going away, I have ordered a new slave from Courtesy and am anxious to see if it has a hole or not. Then I will have more questions as to whether I have the wrong fork or not and to use a spring or not. Don't want to get too long, but here is my story:

I have replaced clutch and Pressure plate (Centerforce), flywheel (Fidanza), and transmission (5-speed). Everything worked fine for a short drive, then I felt something let go or break or something in the clutch pedal feel. The tranny would not go into reverse but other gears seemed fine. I adjusted pedal throw...didn't help. Removed tranny and inspected clutch assembly. Everything looked good so I re-installed. Now seems to run fine. Wanting to eliminate all variables, I have ordered a new MC and slave cylinder so the entire clutch system will be new. Only clues I have for you are...the first drive, I noticed that the clutch released very near the top of the pedal travel, now, after re-installation it releases like it used to nearer the floor. Could it possibly be that the increased force of the new Pressure plate has surfaced issues with the hose or slave cylinder. Since I suspect that, I will be replacing.

You can adjust where it releases with the rod that attaches to the pedal. Obviously, you changed that adjustment when you changed master cylinders.

I have not changed master cylinder yet. When I get the new MC and slave cylinder, I will install, bleed, adjust, and report. How much free play should there be at the slave cylinder? I know there should be no pre load, but is there a value as to the clearance at the slave?

Free play is set at the master cylinder push rod. 24 to 35mm is the spec for clutch pedal free travel. The only thing I see in the FSM on the slave is that the push rod stroke is 35mm on the non-adjustable one. Any tweaks/adjustments to the slave, bleeding, etc. should be done before adjusting the free play and pedal stopper.

Thanks Stephen. Courtesy says that I will have both cylinders early next week, so I will report back as to how it goes. Also new hose just to be sure there is no flex there. Thanks again.

The change occurred in 7/72. That's when the slave cyl rod and hole in the fork apparently changed.

That's when Nissan changed them on the production lines. Being over 35 years old, I'd imagine that the largest percentage of them have been changed to the later style.

I have one if you still need it

If I was going to put a later transmission (BW T5) in my 1972 Z, and I wanted to keep the adjustable slave cylinder arrangement, would I have to change the shift fork from my 4 speed over to the T5, or will it not work?

Greg