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Fitting a later L24e.........


Aussie260z

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Was wondering if anyone can clarify something for me,

If i have a 260z (2 seater) with an l26 and 3spd auto and i got my hands on an l24e with a 4spd auto from an R30 skyline, would this new driveline bolt straight into my zed?

I know the engine is not going to be a drama as it's more or less the same engine, but im more concerned about the gearbox,

Does the gearbox crossmember line up correctly with the gearbox mount position?

Any help would be great,

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Was wondering if anyone can clarify something for me,

If i have a 260z (2 seater) with an l26 and 3spd auto and i got my hands on an l24e with a 4spd auto from an R30 skyline, would this new driveline bolt straight into my zed?

I know the engine is not going to be a drama as it's more or less the same engine, but im more concerned about the gearbox,

Does the gearbox crossmember line up correctly with the gearbox mount position?

Any help would be great,

No!... 2 problems...

1. The L24E has the oil pick-up & sump bowl at the front of the engine.

(the sump is easy enough to change but the oil pick-up needs to be modified).

2. The g/box x-member needs to be swapped over & should line up.

Hope this helps.

Nick.

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I have a few L26's lying around so if i just grab the Sump and Pickup from that engine i should be able to just install them into the L24e engine and then get the correct sump placement?

Im actually doing an L24e conversion into a 260c - which is a mid-mounted sump from memory, but same issue's as if it was into a zed with the sump placement,

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I have a few L26's lying around so if i just grab the Sump and Pickup from that engine i should be able to just install them into the L24e engine and then get the correct sump placement?

Im actually doing an L24e conversion into a 260c - which is a mid-mounted sump from memory, but same issue's as if it was into a zed with the sump placement,

The pickup needs to be modified, it's not a matter of just bolting it in, you have to extend the tube length & also weld a small support bracket to the tube so that it wont vibrate loose or even crack.

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This might seem like a dumb question,

But externally the L24, L26 & L28 are indentical right..........

So if i have an L24e and i remove the sump & pickup,

Then i grab the L26 Sump and pickup and bolted it to the L24e why would any modifications be required?

I mean they are the same basic block, if im using a sump & pickup from one particular L-Series engine and bolting it to another why would modifications be required?

Also - is the L-Series engines like the RB's for the dipstick hole placement?

With an RB30 there is a provision for a rear mounted sump dipstick location, just have to tap out the cylinder plugging the hole and swap the dipstick and cylinder front to rear,

Is this the same case for the L-Series engines? or is the casting atleast for different dipstick locations?

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This might seem like a dumb question,

But externally the L24, L26 & L28 are indentical right..........

So if i have an L24e and i remove the sump & pickup,

Then i grab the L26 Sump and pickup and bolted it to the L24e why would any modifications be required?

I mean they are the same basic block, if im using a sump & pickup from one particular L-Series engine and bolting it to another why would modifications be required?

Also - is the L-Series engines like the RB's for the dipstick hole placement?

With an RB30 there is a provision for a rear mounted sump dipstick location, just have to tap out the cylinder plugging the hole and swap the dipstick and cylinder front to rear,

Is this the same case for the L-Series engines? or is the casting atleast for different dipstick locations?

As far as the dipstick is concerned, yes, you're correct... the pickup on the other hand is a little more difficut. I'm basing this on the 2 that I've done in the past. You have to use the same pickup point in the block to actually bolt the oil pickup to. Even though the middle boss is there in the L24e, it's not drilled & neither is the oil gallerie to it.

I hope I have explained this correctly, if not, you can give me a call & it might be easier over the phone.

Nick, Ph 0416 283 194.

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I would like to add to the information if I can.

The L24E in the R30 was a well balanced package. The engineering, when introducing this engine gearbox combo into the earlier sump positions of the C K & Z are more than miniscule in today pseudo regulatory environment reads (revenue raising). Sump & Dipstick, Prop Shaft, Extension Housing,Tunnel Size, Gearbox Mounts, Oil Coolers.

For the road car in Australia you just upgrade the ADR compliance to the engine build date, Compliance Engineering to 81-85 smog 27a.

To meet compliance the full smog Nissan jetronic [analogue] injection system with all smog gear Includes pump installation, and fuel line for flow and pressure for correct injector fuel plumes. And this is to prove you meet the intent of the ADR, engineering will pass if the engineer is happy at this point and you can then register.

A recommendation you will get good bang for your buck if you rebuild L26 squeeze it under the Head and induction system of the L24E still get the fuel economy and the squirt but loses lots of engineering overhead of an engine number and design change to keep your insurance. Also you can then dump most of the smog gear on the injection system and save more fuel.

With the three speed auto from the R30 it is the last refinement of the type of box in Australian delivered sedan, I believe the Overdrive version was suspect to switching failures. I owned the manual version that gearbox was superb.

my 2c

Cheers

Steve

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I'm in the process of putting a 4-speed automatic in my wife's 280Z. The 4N71B automatic came out of a 1983 Maxima (aka 810 or 910) that also had an L24E engine. The tranmission is LONG and will require a new rear mount of some sort and for the driveshaft to be shortened. I'm working out the details of putting in a mount. It can be done without welding. It'll be a week before I get back to it, though.

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