Thanks guys! I didn't know if it was spray or apply - the spray with lacquer worked great, but as I mentioned, it's really flimsy - I suppose it doesn't matter too much, as the wheel looks SOOO much better now than it did, but I could see how over time the lacquer won't last.

Perhaps in a few years, if it needs a re-coat, I'l go buy some spar varnish and spray it on!

Heres the link with some pics to the post I did a while back.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21485&highlight=restore+wheel

lacquer is a very good protecting finish, dries quickly, but the coating is very brittle. my father-in-law was a cabinet maker and the finishes he put on were incredible. if using, be careful of the humidity when spraying, as high humidity can cloud the finish.

for indoor furniture yes, but not sure it will stand up well to the constant changes in temp and humidity outdoors. it's brittle nature could cause it to crack prematurely.

i used spray oil-based polyurethane. it takes a little longer to dry and cure. but the finish is more resilient/flexible but still tough.

water-based should have the same characteristics but dries quickly allowing you to apply multiple coats in a short time.

I did a ton of research on automotive wood assembly and finishes in exploring making a burl walnut flat dash for my 68 2000. Everything I read boiled down to the following:

Lacquer and pearl glue make for beautiful woodwork that will need a fair level of maintenance, but any damage is easily stripped and repaired.

Current Urethane products make long lasting and stable woodwork that is quite difficult-if not imposable(relatively speaking)-to strip and repair.

The Modern polyurethane finishes that are typically available are much better at consistent color and protection than they are at showing the "Magic in the wood" that lacquer based finishes have proven through time to be so wonderful at.

The rim has been proven to be made of resin-impregnated wood fibers, and it did not have a barrier coating on it, meaning its need for refinishing is due to three things: surface wear, surface dirt and steady solvent evaporation(same thing that can cause the dash to crack) from the resin. What ever you do to prepare and refinish the wheel has to deal with all three

Having said that, I sandblasted the spokes spotless, and sanded the rim as smooth as a babys butt, And applied many thin coats of black appliance epoxy to the spokes and used spar varnish on the rim-slightly overlapping the edges of the epoxy.

Will

From what I've read, the spar varnish is even more resilient than polyurethane. I don't know how forgiving it is, but the nice thing about lacquer is the quick dry...in this type of weather (cool) it worked great, but as noted it flakes with a touch of a fingernail.

I am still happy with the final product - the wheel I purchased to replace the aftermarket one in my car looked like hell when I got it. Now it looks like it's been mildly used, but not abused - just how I like it!

In the original thread I mentioned that I used lacquer on the plastic. That was around 2002 . Since then there have been some damage to the finish by a slipped crescent wrench on the wheel nut by someone who will remain nameless . There are a few scratches also. Since it is lacquer I will only wipe it clean with the scratchy sponge pad from the kitchen and some Joy. And respray more lacquer . no need to remove the other finish. I agree with using Spar Varnish that is by far the most durable , but 5+ years on the lacquer isn't bad. Actually the vary first issue of the Sport Z magazine had a how to article. This is about the same time I did my wheel.