240Z Dash removal

[HKSZ]

Thanks all, I think labeling will be the key especially as there is that many stray wires and unplugged connectors already.

Sent all 4 struts in today for a coil over conversion so its not going anywhere!

[2003z]

it seems to me, if I recall correctly, there are only 2 wires in the harness that can be crossed, so You don't really need to label the wires. There is only one place they can go. The exception is the high beam and alternator wires. They are real thick, one is white/red and the other is red/white. Their plugs are identical at the engine/dash harness mating place, and if you are like me, you might swap them and then spend months trying to figure out why your high beams don't work and your battery won't charge.

[Arne]

it seems to me, if I recall correctly, there are only 2 wires in the harness that can be crossed, so You don't really need to label the wires. >>snip<<

I just did mine last month, and that's the way I recall it too. I didn't label anything, and had no problems identifying where it went. Of course, the early 240Zs are a much simpler car than the later cars, and it may be that the later cars are different, so if in doubt - label it all.

[EScanlon]

After seeing the numerous posts about mismatched and orphaned connections on the car's electrical system, it surprises me that either one of you would so cavalierly recommend NOT labeling.

While it is true that AT the firewall/ Passenger side kickpanel, the connections pretty much pair themselves up autonomously, at the Fuse Box / Heater Control Panel area it is a completely different story.

If you have an Automatic, you have an additional instrument light for the Gear Indicator. If it's a Series I console, the Lighted Rear Window Defog switch goes behind the Choke Lever. If it's a Series II console, then you probably have the Choke Switch wiring. If it's a 73 you have the additional wiring harness for the Lighted Heater Control Panel. The Fog Lamp circuitry also surfaces through there as well as the Electric Fuel Pump wiring.

Toss all those together, add a not so gentle dash removal and see how easily even "experienced" Z folks get confused.

While it can be a chore to label the connections, done carefully and with a bit of attention to permanence, it need never be done again.

You don't have to ID each and every connector, as someone pointed out, use simple colored electrician's tape. Red goes to Red, Blue to Blue, for multiples of this, use two or more stripes. Or just write the alphabet on two pieces of masking tape. Match A to A, B to B, use a combination of letters and numbers if you need more than 26. (Take care of confusing I and lowercase L, cap I and cap H, O and Q, U and V.)

But whatever method you use, if you label BEFORE you start to disconnect, you'll be able to reconnect much easier than trying to remember what went where. Especially if you're planning on removing the wiring harness from the dash to clean/paint/repair items.

FWIW

E

[Arne]

Yeah, I guess I should be more careful about how I shoot off my mouth. I probably have more experience in this kind of stuff than others do, and things that make total sense to me may not to others. I edited my previous post to make bold the call to label if in doubt.

And even that is probably too weak. You should label. I got away with out labeling, but maybe I got lucky. Don't do as I do, do as I say.

[a7dz]

As an electrician that gets to follow the people who don't label these connectors and wires. I did not even think of not labeling mine. Yes, I could of figured it out but, why waste the time or take the chance of burning up some electrical part that is hard to come by or expensive to replace. Just to maybe same a couple of minutes. The other thing to remember is the wire colors do not always cross through connectors. Might be red on one side and black on the other. One place this can happen is under the steering wheel between the combo switch and the turn signal dimmer switch. Been called on that more then once. The other reason I labeled mine is life happens and what was once just going to be a couple of days. I will remember where all of these go has now turned into several months. As is my case right now. A simple replace the fenders repair the wheel arch is now a rolling bare uni-body.

Do what you want, the professionals will label them every time. Too expensive not too.

FWIW

[Tommo560]

Oh Ooh.

i pulled my dash out about 4 months ago and dont even know which icecream container the bolts are in, along with all the other bolts that go in every other now empty hole in the interior.....

I recall that it didnt take all that long to get out (about an hour) including taking the steering wheel off and on again, and that it was only held by about 6 screws, and that if you could manage to cross the wires up even though all the wires are different lengths according to how far they have to go to reach their respective gauges, and all differant sizes so you cant mix them up, then you deserve to have to buy new guages. The hardest part was getting a screw driver into the screws directly under the windscreen without damaging the dash. I still dont think it will be too hard to put back in again (i did the dash in my sisters suzuki swift the same way, no worries) but my dad has expressly told me that re-fitting the interior will be my job, and he's done dash out's in old falcons, so i have my doubts. But no point crying over spilt milk, if you dont code and label everything (not that there was much) then just take your time putting it back in to keep murphy off your back and to make sure you dont have to do the job again.

Tom.

[vercingetorix]

I pulled my dash and replaced it about a month ago and am getting ready to do it again. DEFINATLY mark everything and this time I am am going to pull the windshield because getting it back in was a pain and it needs a new seal anyway.

HCH

[CRrider1988]

when ever i decide to pull mine out, an aluminum one is going back in with all new guages and switches!

[george71z]

I used a black Sharpie, and simply numbered each connector, so at reassembly, 1 went to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3, etc. Also, get a right-angle ratchet screwdriver; they have one for a few $s at any Harbor Freight or similar tool house. Mine came with a selection of bits, so you can handle any fastener. It fits fine between the W/S and dash.

[cremmenga]

i just removed my dash took me about 20 minutes. Im not keeping the heater or any of that stuff so i just ripped it out. but once I got through with taking that out it only took me like a few minutes to get the dash itself out. I took it sanded it down and used the puddy fiberglass and filled in the cracks then sanded it. looks pretty good!! I also took the console and took off all of the chrome and metal stuff off. then sanded it all. and since i'm not having any choke cable i sanded that smooth and I took off the z emblem right under the shift hole and filled that in with the fiberglass stuff and then sanded it smooth. Then i lightly sprayed it with undercoating to get a texture and then sprayed it black and it looks like brand spanken new stuff!!! I love it i'll get pics on as soon as i can!

[HKSZ]

Love to see it, this is exactly what I want to do to mine, I'll use a flexible bumper fibreglass and primer.How long ago did you do it and has it been durable?