Here is a picture I took a while back. It might help shed some light on the subject. Also you will notice a little cardboard "L" I use this to adjust my floats.

By the way Mike, check your private message. I asked you a question regarding another topic.

Hmm, I didn't get a PM. Are you sure you sent it to me?

I do remeber the term "grosse jet" Mike. I think if you buy one of Scott's remanufactured carbs the use one instead of the needle valve.

By the way Mike, check your private message. I asked you a question regarding another topic.

Mark

That was true when Scott Bruning owned the ZTherapy business. My ZT carbs came with Grose Jets and I bought two extra sets of them (NOT for sale!).

However, the last time I visited the Ztherapy website (a few minutes ago),

on the price list page: http://www.ztherapy.com/products/masterprices/master_price_list.htm it is clearly stated that they no longer carry Grose Jets.

In my last conversation with Scott Bruning (YEARS ago), he indicated that he could no longer buy Grose Jets as his source was an elderly machinist (D & G Valve Co.) who had closed his business due to declining health and advanced age. Too bad, as I think they are a great upgrade to our SU's.

FYI, The ZTherapy business is now owned by Steve Epperly and Pam Kirmeier (also good people)

Hey thanks for all the tips guys!

I toyed around with one of my spare SU's that are off the car. I see how the top of the float is setup and the internals of the brass hexagonal deal.

I will pull both the float chamber tops that are on the car off this weekend and clean em up and see what happens!

Will I need to cut up some of my own gaskets? Any tips on the best gasket material?

BTW, I also confirmed I have gas flow to the carbs (downstream from the gas filter), and the fuel appeared clean in a glass

You think I'm safe to run her for a little while by changing the gas filters a few times before I have the tank flushed?

If you clean the carbs and make sure your needle valve is not sticking open and letting the fuel bowl overflow, than yes you should be fine.

I would do two things. Never let your gas tank get lower that 1/4 to 1/2 full, and check or change your fuel filter every fill-up.

Once you get your tank (flushed, boiled, sandblasted) or whatever method to clean it, you will need to replace your fuel filter for the next couple of fill-ups.

If your fuel filter gets clogged you will know it. The RPM's will suddenly die and your car that was running and sounding great just a second ago will go "Burrrrrrrrr". The dirt may pass through and it will sound great again, and the "Burrrrrrrr"

This I tell you from great experience.

Keep a spare fuel filter in your car. Your wife will not be happy when you tell her to go in the garage get your spare fuel filter (which you will have to explain what it looks like over the phone while she is looking), and then drive 25miles to bring it to you.

Now is when she starts in on "you need to clean up your mess in the garage" and "is this car ever going to work right"

Have fun

Mark

Keep a spare fuel filter in your car. Your wife will not be happy when you tell her to go in the garage get your spare fuel filter (which you will have to explain what it looks like over the phone while she is looking), and then drive 25miles to bring it to you.

Now is when she starts in on "you need to clean up your mess in the garage" and "is this car ever going to work right"

Have fun

Mark

Mark, She's already thinking ahead and insisting i keep a spare filter in the glovebox!

I think I can still keep her locked out of the garage....

Well I took the float tops off yesterday and very carefully disassembled them and sprayed them clean with carb cleaner, making sure not to bend the hinges that hold the floats on.I reassembled them carefully. When i tried to restart, i again got soaking wet float chambers. And no start as well. I checked to see if the needle valves were sticking but they appear to move freely. Any other ideas on what i should check? The sevice manual mentions fuel pump problems with the condition it calls "overflow". The pump seems to work ok, it pumped gas into a container when I cranked the starter.

Hopefully someone has a better idea of what I should now look for...

As long as you're sure that the needle assembly is debris free, then the only other thing that can be causing the float bowl to overfill would be the float itself being improperly adjusted.

Just follow the instructions in your FSM on adjusting the floats and you should be ok. Tip: Use any bolt that your 14mm wrench will fit and with the float bowl lid upsidedown and level, place the head of the bolt sideways between the float lid and the float itself.

Now as you lower the float on to the bolt head, at the point it just touches the bolt, the float tab should now be just touching the needle. If it doesn't, adjust the tab so that it does.

Do not keep driving/changing your fuel filter thinking if it gets blocked you'll just change the filter and be ok. It blocks in the sump/lines also, i know from experience. A spare fuel filter won't help you then.

Good think i was only a block from the house when it happened...

MoonPup, That is exactly how I adjust my floats. Using a 14mm wrench.

Very strange.

Great idea regarding the bolt to measure the distance. I will try that for sure!

My mechanic also said try blowing air through the fuel line while raising the float to the needle , just to make sure the needle valve is indeed cutting off the fuel when the tab hits it.

Just curious though, is there any specific reason the floats would suddenly be out of adjustment after the rust incident? Would it involve me simply removing the top of the float chambers, and juggling around with them? I tried to be gentle with 'em.