Buying a trailer, suggestions?

[Ed]

I've been searching for an enclosed trailer. I do have a flatbed trailer that I've been using to take my Z across the country. But I thought it's about time I upgrade to an enclosed one. I found a 20' x 8' enclosed haulmark trailer. Really nice. It was advertised on "Racingjunk.com" Price is right too. Only thing is I really don't know the seller. I've talked to him over the phone and have been emailing him. He has also sent me his home address. My question is what kind of things can I do to prevent getting scammed? I'm not saying that I think I am just that I want to be cautious and cover my a$$. I want to send him some money so that he will hold the trailer for me and I will pay the balance when I pick it up in 10 days. Thanks for any input.

[26th-Z]

Just like buying a used car, Ed. Sounds like you are doing the right thing by looking at it first. Try testing the brakes if you can and, if possible, run a hose over it to check for weather leaks. Do a standard lights and safety check - about all you can do.

[John Coffey]

My recommendation to anyone buying an enclosed trailer is to buy at least a 24' one. Its the most common size so you have lots to choose from and it will hold its value much better then anything smaller. It can can towed by a half-ton pickup with an equalizing hitch and you have room inside for a worktable, compressor, toolbox, etc.

[First Gen Z]

John is right. You'll never regret buying a bigger trailer. You'll use the extra space.

[hls30.com]

Ed,

I am in the same boat(er-trailer), I agree with what everyone has said, and I will buy a 24' or larger-it will also get used as a portable building-with the wheels off the ground.

Will

[ncz]

One thing to remember Ed, make sure the tail doesn't wag the dog. You need to look at the whole package. What do you have to tow it with? Is that flexible or is that what it is. I agree the 24 ft trailer will be great, but if your tow vehicle is a 305 V-8 with a 3:55 rear end, you may not have a lot of fun. Flat ground may be OK but watch the hills! If the tow vehicle isn't set in stone, F250/2500(or more)GM will be much more enjoyable. You can add weight distribution, air bags, trans coolers,etc if you have a 1500 but if you can go bigger it is better. Inspect the trailer frame, especially where the A-frame meets the front of the trailer, what are the towing laws in the state where you frequent. With that trailer you may need brakes on both axles, break away kits, extra side markers, etc. Check for stress fractures and condition of the axles, magnets and hubs, spriings also. If its Tork Flex axles, they are the best, also is it lube through hubs? Definitely plug it up and check the wiring, that can be the most frustrating problem to track down. I work for Draw-Tite and Reese as a factory rep and a lot of my customers sell trailers. A used trailer can be like a used boat, a pain in the arseLOL . Give me a PM when you get a look at it. Good luck.

[Ed]

Thanks for the advice so far. At first I was contemplating an 18' trailer. But that would be kind of small. The Z measures 14' nose to tail and that would give me only 4' of space. So I made 20' my minimum. The larger ones would be nicer but I was getting concerned with the weight of the trailer. The 20' weighs about 3k and that's enough for me, with the car and junk were talking about 6-7k. I also had to consider where to store the trailer when it's not in use. My flatbed trailer is a 20' and it fit's next to my house perfectly.

My tow vehicle is a Chevy truck 1500 with a 5.7L.

But my concern is what can I do to prevent getting scammed. Like I'm sending this guy $200 bucks to hold the trailer until I can pick it up. What if the day comes to pick it up and this guy dissappears off the face of the earth? With my $200. I know it's not much but it's still $200. I think I'm being paranoid but, I don't want to do anything that could have been preventable.

Thanks Guys.