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Honda Civic Heater Blower Motor upgrade for 240z's--My personal take


dogma420

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You can certainly run a live wire from a power source to a switch and to the fan motor. I'd use a feed from a 'key on' source so it went out with the key switch. I'd probably try to figure out why the existing wire wasn't feeding it though first. Do you have power to the incoming side of the fuse? I haven't done anything with my 240 but lots to my 280's. Apparently there are some differences so I can't offer specific help with wire color and so on, but the feed wire has to be in a circut that comes on with the key. It would be the simplest and cleanest to trace it back as best you can (continuity test).

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I found the blue wire with the in-line fuse. I will test out the cord tonight to see if it gets any power at all. Does the fuse have to be in the in-line fuse holder in order for me to test it? Or can I just touch the tester to the wires with the fuse out, power on and knob turned to test it out?

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Test it both ways, with and without the fuse. That will also tell you if the fuse if bad or good.

Once you find power to the blue, replace the fuse then reassemble the holder and test on down the line to make sure the wiring is good all the way to the motor and or thermostat on top of the heater/blower asembly.

Dave

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  • 4 months later...

I just left the snorkel off, so the hole basically "vents" into the cabin.

From taking the thing apart to paint the silver cover, I couldn't see any real purpose to the vent hole (the original motor in our Z's was similar in design, and did not have one), so I saw no point in mangling my fan box.

So then I wonder: could it be somehow bad for the motor to not have the vent go back into the box? Well, it seems to be running fine so far after about 6-8 months, and if it breaks down as a result later, I can always find another one.

I would think it would be a hell of a lot harder to find a new fan box.

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There is a pressure differential between the motor can and the point the vent enters the box, if properly designed. This causes air to flow and cool the motor.

Steve

Hmm, that makes sense. I guess I'll have to dig my snorkel out of the parts bin when I eventually re-do the entire climate control system

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Bit of an update here from my end. My old motor in my 280z decided that it would quit working the other day. I pulled it out and found that it had basically frozen. I got it working again but it barely moves any air. So I proceeded to my local parts store and asked for a blower motor out of an 89 Civic. $39.57 later I was home ready to work. To my dismay (and idiocy as its written in the review above) I forgot that these motors don't come with the plastic fan thingy.

Well I zoomed off to the local pull-a-part yard and found (surprise) a 91' Honda civic with the SAME (literally the same one) motor. But before I could even get to work on said motor the yard man advise me that the yard was closing. (rats)

I did though test both motors when they were out of the box. It seems that the Honda motor has a greater pushing force then the old OE one I have. It could be because the OE one is from 76'.

Jan

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Hey guys.

First off. Can this update be made on 280s. As have all the parts needed but the motor doesn't seem to fit. Is this a 240z exclusive upgrade? My old motor no longer works so I though this could be done?

The problem I seem to be having is that the cage for the new motor is too big for the opening in the vent. (cage=fan thingy). Its about an a quarter inch wider on each side. Any help would be great.

Jan

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Same with the 260Z airbox, it was a 1/4" too small for the fan to fit thru the hole. So I cut about 3/16" lip off the box to allow the cage to fit thru snuggly. Works friggin awesome!!!! Like a damn tornado in the dash now.

Just trim the fat and make it fit, you won't be sorry. Only a 2 wire hook-up and you're done.

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