transmission type would have NO effect on starting an engine. Driving on a cold engine yes, starting one, no.

Whatever...I quit...you win.....

Originally Posted by Montezuma

The point is; don't take a chance on ruining your consol like what happened to me get new cables.

Originally Posted by Montezuma

bought it that way....I am WAY too smart to ever break something on my otherwise original car.

?????????????????

Whats the pro date on your Z? The dealer says that pre 12/71 are no longer available.however if found new,the price would be around $120.00-130.00.

JZM..

Do the cables vary a great deal depending on the production year? My car is a 1/71 build date, has four screw SU's.

Woudl cable from a later year work? Someone from this forum is already offering to sell me some from a 73...

Do the cables vary a great deal depending on the production year? My car is a 1/71 build date, has four screw SU's.

Woudl cable from a later year work? Someone from this forum is already offering to sell me some from a 73...

deadflo:

I don't know how much the parts for different years vary, but MSA lists 2 types for 70-71 prod cars (1 for cars w/ hand throttle & 1 w/o) and 1 ea. for 72, 73, and (early) 74).

Wish you good luck in finding what you need for your car.

deadflo:

I don't know how much the parts for different years vary, but MSA lists 2 types for 70-71 prod cars (1 for cars w/ hand throttle & 1 w/o) and 1 ea. for 72, 73, and (early) 74).

Wish you good luck in finding what you need for your car.

OK so I guess that means the 73 cables won't fit...my outer wrap on both cables is cracking, so maybe I should replace both of em.

Hmm.. I have a couple of sets, I will try to see what the differences are between them.

OK so I guess that means the 73 cables won't fit...my outer wrap on both cables is cracking, so maybe I should replace both of em.

If I remember correctly from my '73 parts car, the cables used on the flat-top carbs were longer as they came into the engine bay on the battery side of the engine, then over the top of the valve cover. The early Series I cars (like what it sounds you have, mine is also 1/71 production), come intot he engine bay on the driver's side. You can use the '73 cables, but they would need to be cut some.

The early style cables are two separate outer sheaths, with one long single cable. The single wire cable runs from one carb choke, to the choke handle, around the little plastic piece connected to the handle, then back to the other carb choke.

Also make sure that your choke tube is not sticking in the carb body at all. I watch a guy once break his console because the choke tubes were stuck in the carb bodies. The car had been sitting for awhile.

i just recently replaced my cables with brand new cables (from motorsport auto)i think it was about $110.00...that coupled with a custom choke plate

that i fabricated out of 1/8" steel plate,the best money ive spent yet!!

works better than new!

I have several pairs of choke cables, with 3 different base plates (the part that attaches to the console). I am not sure which plate went with which year, maybe someone with that knowledge will step up.

Here they are:

All three of the choke cables wrapped around the pivot stud, for lack of a proper name. The other ends looked the same, with the boots, or just a nekkid cable.

The first of Mat's pictures is the 70-71 style. I found that if the lever mechanism on the console is good, you can replace the cable itself (which is a single looped cable) with the longer one from a later assembly. Shorten them up a bit and they work fine.

I just repaired my choke cable on my 71 a couple of days ago. The cable was sticking inside the sheath making it increasingly difficult to pull on and even more difficult to push off.

It was a case of simply taking the cable out of it's sheath and cleaning it, sanding it back with a bit of 'wet and dry' and pouring a bit of oil down the choke cable tubes. It was important to make sure that the cable was dead straight because the slightest kink in the cable makes it very difficult to push it back through. I also shortened the cables slightly to remove the dirty and badly bent cable ends. Another option, as Arne mentioned, is to replace the internal cable with a new one, just make sure that you replace it with a high tensile cable.