Finally

[KenshinX]

What do you guys think anyone know where Rodesville virginia is?

well its a 1973 datsun 240z i knew it would happen today I really want this car look at the pics OMG im not sure about the rust but will definitly check with the guy. But now my moms being a Pain:finger: - shes a nice lady tho:sleep: :sleepy: :hurt: hope i can work something out i must have this car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-DATSUN-240Z-PARTS-PROJECT_W0QQitemZ4630942059QQcategoryZ6187QQssPa

[SavannahZ]

Definitely worth checking into.

Keep us posted!

[moonpup]

Here's six reasons why you should forget about this car.

Quoted from EBAY seller:

1. ROUGH AND RUSTY

2. SHADE TREE CHANGE COLOR PAINT JOB

3. BLISTERS SHOWING ON MOST PANELS

4. COULDN'T DRIVE IT ON THE STREET

5. RUST HOLES..... ABOVE ALL FOUR WHEELS

6. THE DASH IS CRACKED UP

[KenshinX]

Thnx moon pup i was curious about the rust above all four wheel whats up with that ive never heard of such a condition

[moonpup]

It just means that there's alot of rust hidden behind the sheet metal and its come through at those spots.

Actually, the seller is being honest and telling everyone that this is basically a rust bucket. Besides telling us about the wheel wells, he also states nearly every panel has blisters (I read...rust) under the paint!

[Montezuma]

Thnx moon pup i was curious about the rust above all four wheel whats up with that ive never heard of such a condition

It seems as thought the person selling the car is not a Z guy. I sold a 73 for $400.00 that was ALOT worst, the guy who got it, loves it. If you can get this thing for under $500 it might be worth it....of course it would be better if you could get a look at prior purchase.

[xray]

Direct quote:

"BEST CASE IT CAN PROBABLY BE RESTORED BUT I DON'T KNOW IF IT'S WORTH IT"

What more do you want to know? Standard issue East Coast unrestored Z...Count on replacing frame rails, floorboards, both fenders, both wheel arches +/- inner fenders on rear, probably rear hatch, battery tray.....blah blah blah. THEN, dash, new trans (can't shift to fourth), etc. And that's just what he's disclosed! Who knows what lurks beneath? Remember, Zs rust from within, so it's always a "tip of the iceberg" phenomenon....

With that said, why not road trip and see for yourself? Take some pics, post 'em and ask for advice. We are always willing to help out!

In sum, I have two words: parts car. Or: money pit. Or: caveat emptor. You choose. If you bid, Don't go a nickel above $500 unless it looks better in person...don't forget about shipping costs (Culpeper is about an hour north and east of Charlottesville, headed toward Spotsylvania) since you shouldn't dare take it on the road.

Good luck,

Steve

[kenz240z]

Be prepared to spend big bux on fixing the rust issues. If you were to purchase the car and have a shop do all the metal replacement, a good estimate would be $3500 for parts & labor. Now, double that number and you have a more realistic estimate. So, you're looking at $7000 to address the rust issues, and you haven't even started on the mechanical systems. Brakes, suspension, steering and new tires will cost you another $2000 or $3000 if you have a shop do the work (add $1000 to $2000 if you want custom rims, let's keep it stock, though...). Now you've got $9,000 to $10,000 in the car. Does the engine run? Are the carbs adjusted and working properly? Is the exhaust system shot? Figure on another $3000 to $4000 to get the engine rebuilt, have the carbs rebuilt, and have the exhaust replaced. Now you've got $12,000 to $14,000 in the car. Oh, and didn't the seller mention the interior needs work? It's gonna cost you about $1000 for a full dash cap, new seat covers, carpet, headliner, console and door panels; another $500 or so if you need to replace the plastic panels...there's another $1,500. So, you're now at $15,500, max. Add 10% for a fudge factor and you will need $17,050 to get the car in good shape. Let's be generous and round it down to $17,000. Wait a minute, when the body work was done, that was only to cut out the rust and weld in/install the new panels. We forgot to paint it... That will be another $500 to $5000, depending on the shop and the quality of the paint job. Let's say you get it done for $2,500, now you've got $19,500 in the car. Well, now that it's looking so good, you can't resist putting 20" rims on it, better add another $3000 to $4000 for the rims & tires. Worst case, you've now spent $23,500. Can it be done for less, sure. It can also cost more.

Then again, maybe you can live with the rust, and the car is driveable. In that case, plan on spending $1,000 to $2,000 getting the brakes, suspension & steering replaced/rebuilt. At the absolute minimum you need to insure the car is safe to drive. Don't even think about driving it on the street until you can safely steer and stop the car.

Forgive me if this has come off as a rant or anything negative, my intention is to provide a dose of reality. And, if you get this car, I want you to be safe so that you can enjoy it, even if it takes you a while to get all the cosmetic work done.

[sakijo]

Seriously think about it. Go take a look at it. Be objective. Don't get emotional. There are other cars out there.

I looked at one car - the price was right and it was in good condition, the owner was a mechanic type. Problem? Missing little parts here and there and four holes in the trunk lid where a spoiler was mounted. Passed.

Second car - I bought it (see my avatar). Repainted original condition car. Lightly molested with headers, exhaust and wheels. To date, I have spent a ton of money on this little monster. Exhaust system blew up. Had to put in a new exhaust system from the headers back. Replace the 4 speed transmission with a 5 speed and new clutch (the clutch, by the way, was worn down to the rivets). Full brake job - shoes, pads, flex lines, master cylinder and vacuum booster (brakes, by the way, were worn down to 2mm of material). Now getting a head job to cure the oil burning due to worn valve seals. 5 new tires - yes even the spare was dry-rotted with hundreds of little cracks in them. Suspension is next - shocks, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, and a few other things. My car was in good condition. Only has 98,000 km on the clock. I'm only doing "regular" maintenance. Go see my gallery for pictures.

Think long and hard . . . .

[1 Bravo 6]

Caleb,

You're only a young bloke, don't burden yourself with a car that's going to cost big bucks just to make it roadworthy.

I think I can see where your Mother's coming from. She probably imagines having a pile of junk in the yard.

So far you've had some VERY good advice from some very knowledgeable people who know what they're talking about when it comes to restoring Zeds. My advice is, ...... take THEIR advice. Kens240z and Sakijo have given realistic approximation of the costs involved in car restoration.

If you have a shed out back where you can hide it and plan on using it as a learning experience then sure, go for it. Otherwise, I'd say give it a miss, save your pennies and have patience ....... a better buy will come along eventually. Don't let youthful enthusiasm overcome common sense.

Sorry to be so negative. I once gave a neighbour's son the same advice; he bought the rust bucket anyway and wound up dumping it, then said he wished that he'd taken my advice.

It's your decision mate; just don't make the WRONG one.

Rick.

:devious: :devious:

[KenshinX]

I've decided not to bid on the count of the transmission and rust above the wheels. I have found 3 Zs in the Va area that are will to work with me one has a 350small block might pass on that one. I really want a 240z because of the rarity and the fact it started it all, plus its slightly smaller weighs less and the BRE spook fits and my favorite year is the 72.

I've taken up another job besides fixing computers and plan on finding a Z in VA for a least $500-$2100. Even the ones that are $1000-$2000 are rust buckets here and it doesnt help that I'm resticted to only instate cars sigh(if not I would been had one in either NC or MD area).

[AWC]

Here's my advice, feel free to ignore it. I'd say that you would be better off buying a decent runner that needs some ongoing maintenance/going over than buying a full-on project car.

Why? A runner is going to be more rewarding because you will get to enjoy it on the road as well as enjoy any fixes/upgrades as you go along. You will learn a lot going over the car and fixing what needs to be tweaked versus being totally overwhelmed by something that is really far from getting back on the road. Actually if you could find something that "ran when parked a couple of years ago" that may be perfect. Then you would need to check out the fuel system, brakes, battery, etc., but could probably get the car running in a matter of weeks.

This kind of car will also be priced at the biggest discount to its actual value when running because most people will not even consider buying a car that isn't currently running, so there is low demand.

Also, it will probably be easier to find a good example of the kind of car described above in a 260 or 280z. Like you I think the 240s are cooler, but 260s are pretty cool and there is nothing wrong with a 280 either. At your age a nicer 260 may be preferable to a beater rust-bucket 240. Then someday you can save up for that full-on 240 restoration project, when you have more time and a place of your own.