I don't believe proper rust repair or body work would disqualify a car as "original" assuming it is done properly and with quality replacements. But what do I know. I'll let the "experts" make the call on this one.

I am going to buck the system and say keep going. I get tired of looking at discarded Z's laying around in the woods. We all benefit when we can have more nice running examples on the road. You have taken the time to have it blasted. And you can clearly see what your dealing with rust wise. Dont give up. Keep Mr.K's dream alive.

Just look in my gallery your not the only one crazy enough to do this...

After having taken 8-1/2 years to finish my project, I'll chime in here. First off, you now know exactly what you have to work with. This is already a better position to be in than when you first started. Unfortunately, a little late in the game, but better late than never. The rust on the rear hatch deck is minor, and you already have a replacement panel. I had the same issue. The rust on the front lower rocker (behind the front wheel) is a minor issue. You can weld in a small cut sheet of steel and not worry about it; it's hidden behind the fender after all. the rust on the lower uni-body at the bottom of the front fender wells is also minor. Put a small cut piece of lfat sheet steel there and your done. Your floors don't look to bad and you can get replacements for as low as $200 for the set. They're under carpet, too.

The rust on the rear fender lips (rear quarter panels) is a big issue. That much rust means it's deeper in there than you can see. To do this right (which the PO obviously hasn't done), you will need to not only replace the outer qtr panels, but also the inner wheel well panels and the inner lower dog-legs. Lots of steel and lots of work. The rust on the roof at the drip rail is a very big issue. This area is a major structural connection. These cars tend to rust from the inside out and that area not only require a new roof, but a lot of time to get in put back on right and to look good.

You have already stripped the car of everything good. Keep those items. you will need them. Either to use on another shell, or to sell to help pay to continue the project. Spares come in handy on Ebay.

Unless you have good knowledge in body-work and are good with a welder, find yourself another shell in better shape. You're in CA, just by that fact you've already got the best selection in good bodies around. This one, though, is too far gone.

Plan to spend at least another $1500 for another car. Less depending on what is still on the car. Sell all the extra parts you can get with the new shell to help offset your costs.

Consider this point the first punch in a fight. It may have knocked the wind out of you for a bit, but at least you're still standing and can continue the fight.

Btw, when I finished (sort of, it's never really finished is it?) my car back in '02, I was into the project for just under $3800. That included all parts, parts cars, paint, misc, etc, minus all the spare parts I sold.

All I have to say is finish it!! Repair it, be the guy to save that car from being crushed! Its not that bad look and my gallery min was much worse, i bought every new panel plus had to make my own on some. it will be worth it in the end!!!!!!!! and here is the links to mull's vids, I watch them over and over and over and over and over and over and over. http://www.voodoo-people.com/~daz/mull/wmv/

hell i even learned to lead bc of these videos!!!! SAVE THE CAR FROM THE JUNKYARD!!!

I hate to say it but that car is basically scap metal. The worst part is that roof. That would make an ideal race car platform if the roof didn't need work. I say this one is just too far gone. Good luck making the decision. Nothing is impossible, but not everything is worth it.

alright ive decided what im going to do. I pretty much overwelmed and i dont want to go on. i have most of the replacment panels for it. Heres what im going to do. Someone make me an offer on the shell. i have rust free fenders, the rear hatch replacment, that im offering too. I have the orignal matching numbers engine and suspension stuff. Someone make me an offer or its going on ebay. its a good place to start for someone who knows how to weld.

btw i also have a new old stock dash. (this is not a restored one its a BRAND NEW FACTORY orignal for a 240z). i got pics so someone make me an offer on that too.

Why don't you keep some of your spare panels and use them on the 280? Everything you have exterior-wise for the '72 will fit on the '75, including the doors (wouldn't if it was a '77-78). The 280 looks like a much better candidate, too. Unless, you just really want a 240.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110372

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110372

Hey man, just thought you might want to know. The Mallory Distributor you are selling is described as a dual points distributor, but your ebay indicates it's like a Mallory that recently sold for over $300. The one that sold for over $300 (linked in your ad) was a Mallory Unilite distributor which is an Electronic Distrutor that does not have points at all. Comparing Apples to Oranges my friend.

oh i thought they were the same. my mistake. ill try to change it.

Those front fenders look mighty interesting. Banged up? Straight?

Would you mind dropping me a PM with price and estimated shipping (Stockholm, Sweden)?

Cheers