I have an early 70 Z and the driver's window is pretty sloppy . I want to install the window pressure roller and cannot find the right location on the interior of the door. Does someone have a picture of the right location, or could someone explain exactly where it is located on the door?

Thanks!

You have to remove the molding from the top of the door skin. The molding is chrome with a rubber strip, it looks like a squeegy. The roller clips onto the lip, and then put back the molding. I hope it helps you.

Cheers, Ari

To continue what Ari said, it clips so that the roller contacts the glass near the leading edge of the window when the glass is all the way down.

Make sure you realize that there is a Right and Left side part..it's easy to get them in backwards... Roll the window up/down and observe how the roller would be in contact with the direction of travel of the window.. when the roller is put in place..

FWIW,

Carl B.

and don't ask how I know that..;-)

I bet if you tighten the bolts at the bottom of the window it won't be nearly as sloppy. Easiest to pull the window out to get at the bolts. Carl once very smartly recommended loctite on them to prevent them from backing out later on.

The roller helps too, but most of the rattle when you close the door comes from the bolts loosening IME.

I bet if you tighten the bolts at the bottom of the window it won't be nearly as sloppy. Easiest to pull the window out to get at the bolts. Carl once very smartly recommended loctite on them to prevent them from backing out later on.

The roller helps too, but most of the rattle when you close the door comes from the bolts loosening IME.

Jim, please elaborate. I'm assuming that you have to pull the interior door panel. But is it also easier to tighten these bottom window bolts after removing the window? Does the window obscure access to the bolts?

Gary S.

If you haven't done it before, pulling the window is very easy to do, so start with that. It's been years for me, but IIRC the basic jist is pull the door panel, pull the stainless trim (the window track), then my memory gets a little fuzzy. I seem to remember that you tilt the window forward and then lift it out. Anyway, it's literally a 5 minute thing. Very easy once you're in there.

Once the window is out you will see that there are maybe 8 or so nuts that hold the window to the frame at the bottom. Tightening these nuts is easy enough, but I'd follow Carl's advice from 1998 or whenever he gave it to me and put some Loctite on the threads, then tighten them down. I don't have the specs, but obviously you don't want to overtighten and crack the glass. Reinstall the window.

If you close the door and you hear that rattle it's the window flopping back and forth both at the top AND at the bottom causing the noise and a roller isn't enough to stop it. I wish I could get more detailed than that but like I said it's been a long time. You might find another post on window removal if you search for it.

Hi Stephen:

You don't have to remove the stainless steel window frame. You can take the glass out, and put it back in, with the frame in place.

The window frame/regulator etc might be loose as it is mounted to the inner sheetmetal of the door - or the glass migh be loose where it attaches to the metal frame that holds it.

I'd check the mounting points on the inner door sheetmetal first.. and if that doesn't do it.. Then take the window out.

The glass will come out through the opening in the top of the door - but you have to slightly pry the opening apart most of the time. This is always a good place to have an extra set of helping hands.. The widest part of the window has to come out by the area where the door push button/lock is.. at the rear of the door.

Taking the window out - and putting it back in is a snap - Once you have done it five or six times in a month. The first time it can be quite frustrating as you attempt to get all the rollers on the regulator in their proper position relative to the guides they slide in - and they have to be in EXACTLY their proper position to all fit in place a the same instant in time...

I've scanned a page from the Factory Service Bulletin - - re read it as you go along and it will make more sense...

good luck,

Carl B.

Thanks, Gary, for reopening this thread and thanks, Carl, for the directions!!

Yes, thank you Carl and Jon. And Jon, thanks also for your patience with my addressing you by the wrong name...I think I've got it down now!

Gary S.